I’m building a corner cabinet and need to glue-up and join two 4″ boards to form a 45 degree part (each of the stiles is ripped at 22.5 degrees) for each corner of the cabinet.
I can use biscuits in addition to a glue line, but I can’t see how to apply pressure on the joint while the glue drys. Can you suggest a method?
Thanks,
Paul, from Ivoryton, CT
Replies
This has worked for me on some pretty big pieces (14 foot long joint.)
Just put tape across the joint on the face of the pieces. Make sure you have tape continuously all along he joint. Apply glue to the joint surfaces with a brush, then close the joint and secure with tape as the glue dries. There is enough slack pulled up as you close the joint that it gives excellent results, better than I have gotten any other way. Biscuits just get in the way on this joint.
Michael R.
Depending on the job,I use a combination of the two methods.
For the mitered corners of a corner cupboard where it is essential that the glued angle be exactly 45 deg. I cut the two parts a shade over 22 1/2 deg. After the glue has been applied,and the tape is put on and folded.I clamp the assembly to several 45 deg. blocks precision made for the purpose and clamped to the top edge of my black granite surface plate. I have never had a problem with the rest of the assembly being flat when I have used this method. When making a glue up to go around a pipe or a round column of any kind,I always cut the edge angles A little on the plus side. With 3/4 " material this would be just a glimmer of light when checked with a proper angle gauge .The joints will then always be tight on the outside and the minor error in angles will be taken care of by the hardened glue on the inside.
I cannot stress too much the practice of making a test strip for the angles before cutting the good boards. Cut the test strip into short lengths,the number to correspond to the number of sides.Pull them together with a piece of twine,and the accuracy of the angles will be apparent. I have never been able to rip strips from a long straight board and wind up with long straight strips ready for final machining. I rip my strips a little oversize from rough sawed lumber,flatten one face and square one edge and go from there.Work safely¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬Thank you,Mr.Croney,where ever you may be.
Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
Cut some clamp blocks out of the waste that you ripped off the stiles. Use little dabs of hot glue (to the work or the clamp pads, your choice) to keep them from slipping under pressure.
Our Uncle's suggestion for clamping blocks is what I would recommend too.
But the tape idea can also work, especially if the pieces are not too wide.
EDIT: I just went back and noticed your boards are 4" wide; How about taking a couple of scraps, also cut at 22 1/2 degrees, nail them together, then lay your glued up finished pieces over them, and tape them up? That will establish the angle, and make the glue up really easy.
Edited 4/2/2005 4:57 pm ET by nikkiwood
Edited 4/2/2005 4:58 pm ET by nikkiwood
Do it woodwiz way, Tape is all you need, no biscuits or you can't fold the joint together.
mike
Paul,
It's easier for assembly, to leave the stiles that form the face of the cupboard square. Glue up the face frame. Then cut the edge of the mating stile at 45*. If you make the 45* cut just to a depth that equals the thickness of the face, then you will have enough meat left on its back edge that forms a lip that will keep the two boards from sliding when clamped up.
I have a box full of clamp blocks just for corner cupboard glue ups. They are out of 1-3/4" square stock about 7-8" long. Near one end is a "hook" formed by cutting away about 1/2" for 6" of length, and leaving a block for the remainder of the length that projects that 1/2". This hooks over the outside edge of the angled stile. On the block's opposite face, cut a 45* notch deep enough to engage the end of a bar clamp. The notch should be positioned so that clamp pressure is exerted in line with the glue joint. Clamps are run from the notch in the block to the inside edge of the face frame. Make enough blocks to clamp every foot or so down the length of the stile.
I also have a shop made 225* (or is it 135*?) try square, to check the outside faces of the boards for truth after gluing up. Adjust clamps up or down on the joint to open or close the angle.
While most old cupboards have the shelves frankly nailed through the front of the face to hold them in place, I prefer to capture them in gains 1/4" deep cut across the angled stiles. Toenail them into the gains from inside, nothing will show on the outside.
Regards,
Ray
Thank you all for your excellent detailed suggestions on how to joint two 22.5 degree stiles for my corner cabinet!
I tried the "tape" solution and it worked wonderfully! I first applied a strip or 2" masking tape on the length of the two pieces, then appled glue with a brush, then brought the two glued surfaces together and circled the pieces with more tape perpendicular to their length to hold them in place as the glue dried.
Thank you again. You saved my project from no telling what strange attempts I might otherwise would have made without your willingness to share your experiences.
Paul from Ivoryton, CT
Titebond makes a glue for trim work, that pretty much grabs as you stick it together. 23 ga. pins will hold too.
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