Replies

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Jan 25, 2002 01:34am | #1

   *
   Robert,

   Off hand I would say a full blind mortise and tenon for the "foot". The upswept members; are these structural in terms of weight bearing or just as "stiffeners"? If they are primarily for stability I would think a doweled joint could be used for these. Am I correct that your sketch is "proportional" in the thickness and placement of these upswept members.?

   Other than the concerns you mentioned, I would also have a concern about using a dove tail on face grain as opposed to end grain.

   Dano

1. 
   Robert_P._Holland | Jan 25, 2002 04:07am | #2

   *By using a dovetail for the foot I was following the typical method that you see on single pedestal tables where three legs attach. My sketch may have be somewhat misleading, the pieces that connect each column are laminated from 1/16" veneer to form the curve and 1" thick by 4" high. These curved laminations probably serve more as stiffners and to tie each post and leg together. I may try to post a photograph of the table I am duplicating. Thanks for the input. Robert

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Jan 25, 2002 05:12am | #3

   *Robert,No need to post another picture, I have a clear idea.You are correct with the stopped slotted dovetail as a "traditional" method for attaching the leg for three legged single pedestal table. Doweling was another "traditional" method. Both methods won't eliminate the legs (feet) from "splaying" over time. Typically a brass reinforcing strap of sorts was fastened on the bottom in an attempt to prevent this. A 60" diameter table is a pretty heavy piece and quite different from your typical single pedestal table.I personally would feel more comfortable with a mortise and tenon for the foot. Especially considering there is only one foot being dealt with and the size of the table. FWIW.Dano

1. 
   Mike_Pingrey | Jan 26, 2002 04:43am | #4

   *Robert, let's see if I have this clear: you have four posts each with only one foot attached, and each with an apron attached; said apron curving to the next post in line - two attachments. I'd be concerned about one foot only, but if that is the plan, then I think I'd attach the foot with a through tenon, pinned behind the apron. The apron is a very good candidate for a sliding dovetail joint. The dovetail shouldn't take so much room that you couldn't still get a good-sized through tenon, and retain some mass of wood in the post. That one foot still bothers me, though.Good luck. Mike

1. 
   Robert_P._Holland | Jan 26, 2002 06:54am | #5

   *If you go to lanefurniture.com the home page has a picture of the table I am making. It is in their Williamsburg Collection. I have examined this piece closer and it looks like the leg is attached with a screw or hanger bolt because there is a plug on the inside of each post. I think a tenon would be better as you suggest. Thanks.

2. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Jan 26, 2002 11:01am | #6

   *Ah ha, Robert,I guess it wasn't clear to me. I had thought from your sketch that the curved elements went up. I see now that they are radiused stretchers.Pretty amazing that my recommendation still is valid. Have fun with your project.Dano

3. 
   Scott_Braun | Jan 30, 2002 10:59pm | #7

   *Robert,if you use a 1/2" thick tenon from the leg, nice and long, say 1 1/2", and then stub tenons from the aprons, 3/4" long, you should have a nice 1/2" of meat between the bottoms of your apron mortises and the cheeks of your leg mortice. I would think that would hold up nicely, and the enclosed leg tenon combined with the amount of shoulder surface would provide more shear support and mechanical work than a sliding dovetail. SB