Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Jul 14, 2006 05:02pm | #1

   Shalom,

   I'm confused by your description of what you are planning to do.  It sounds like you are planning to laminate two thicknesses of 1" stock with opposing grain direction.  I would not recommend this.  Instead of two U 's, it may be helpful to think of your base as an X, with two diagonal legs that are joined in a half lap (crosslap) joint where thay intersect.  The legs can be laminated from thinner stock, but the grain direction should be aligned.  Of course the legs don't have to be straight, you can make them up from wider stock, and shape them into whatever curve pleases you.

   On old work, often the lap joint was not glued, but held together by the tenon of a stretcher running from trestle to trestle, which pierced the joint, and was wedged from the outside (tusk tenon).

   Regards,

   Ray Pine

1. 
   Shalom | Jul 15, 2006 06:50am | #4

   Ray, thanks for your comments. I was finding it difficult to describe my project. I am trying to make a replica of a Maloof trestle table. The base on each side can best be described as looking like a shallow champagne glass with a stem and a foot. The part that holds the champagne would be the part directly under and supporting the table.  Since the "legs"(feet)   flair out from the stem, Malouf changes the direction of the grain. Thus the grain on the part that is on top (the part that "holds the wine) runs horizontally, the grain in the stem runs vertically, and the grain on the feet runs horizontally again.  So the grain in my joints will go in opposite directions.  I thought that by combining two one inch boards with the grain going in the same direction and leaving a two inch ledge, like a rabbet on each joint I might be able to join them. The overlay on each separate part would have the grain gong in the same direction but the part on the rabbet would go in the opposite.  The result would be a base thats about two inches thick in total. I thought that would be simpler (given my tools and skill level) than making  mortise and tenon joints. Sorry for the l-o-n-g attempt at explaining myself. I'm a retired academic. My job was to write long stuff whenever I could. I'm also not experienced in woodworker language. That's why this site is a blessing. Thanks again for your previous response. If you managed to get to the end of this treatise I would appreciate any suggestions you might have. Shalom

1. 
   joinerswork | Jul 16, 2006 06:38pm | #5

   Shalom,

   I'd cut mortises into the horizontally grained members (about 5/8-3/4", or 1/3 of the stock's thickness), and join them to the vertically grained piece with a suitably long tenon, 2" or so.  A haunch (shoulder) on all 4 sides of the tenon will make the joint look nice and clean.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   Shalom | Jul 16, 2006 07:03pm | #6

   Thanks again Ray. But again I need some clarification. Are you suggesting that the mortise be two inches deep to accomodate a "two inch long tenon" or that the tenon be two inches end to end. If the latter, how deep do you suggest I make the mortise. I think I see a light at the end of this tunnel. Thanks. Shalom

1. 
   joinerswork | Jul 17, 2006 07:47am | #7

   Shalom,

   Yeah, two inches or so long tenon/deep mortise, by 5/8 (tenon thickness), by whatever width the design allows.  Maybe a divided tenon at the foot, if the mortise is more than 5- 6" wide.

   Regards,

   Ray

2. 
   citrouille | Jul 15, 2006 01:35am | #2

   Tsk ...tsk ...Shalom, you are not supposet to put your elbows on the table !

   C.

1. 
   Shalom | Jul 15, 2006 06:21am | #3

   Yes Mom, sorry. I knew somehow that you are watching over me. Shalom

3. 
   Jfrostjr | Jul 17, 2006 05:02pm | #8

   If you do elect the "stopped sliding dovetail", check out post # 1250.11.

   Frosty