I’m building several 5 and 6 foot tall open bookcases all solid cherry. My question is the joint for attaching the top to the vertical sides. What I am considering is using a spline and if I do that would you also screw or dowel the top down into the sides or is that over kill? For me, a miter joint while more elegant, I am not set up to be sure enough that I’ll get that cut accurately. This is also too much for me to cut dovetails, the pieces are too cumbersome for my leigh jig. So, let me know what you think of using a splined butt joint for the top. Thanks for your help.
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Replies
Drive the screws and plug the holes if that's the finished top surface.
Perfect time to learn how to cut half-blind dovetails by hand!
I would do it this way for strength and to cover the shelf end grain from view: Glue should be enough particularly if the bookcase has a plywood back setting in a rabbet and glued. Without a back, you should include some cross bracing of some kind. The side could also extend upward above the top shelf if you like and have a decorative curve or other shape. You could also cover the tongue and groove with a face frame or make a stopped groove and tongue for a cleaner look.
If you think about it the joint serves a few purposes:
1. It must support the top; and
2. It must prevent the sides from moving in; and
3. It must prevent the sides from moving out; and
4. It must not look fugly.
To take a minimalistic approach, the classic Billy bookcase from Ikea uses KD fixings and dowels. It is more than strong enough provided it is treated with care despite being made of particleboard. It meets all four needs whilst being easy to assemble and packing flat for transport.
The simplest 'woodworking' answer (leaving visible fixings seems to be frowned upon in the airy circles of FWW) is floating tenons - no need for dominos - you can cut slots with a router and make your own. You can also use dowels - dowel pins give excellent results. Anything else is as you suggest, overkill. No one will ever know or care because once the back is on, that will do almost all of the work of ensuring that the joint never comes undone.
Of course, you can do blind mitred dovetails if you are feeling fancy, but it is overkill in every application - your spline idea will be more than strong enough and is way easier (I have a biscuit jointer so would use that for reinforcement) and if you are going to show off, you might as well do so in a way that can be seen. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzNhv1kID6E
Were they mine, I would hand-cut dovetails. It does not take long and if you take your time you will get good results and they look nice even if imperfect. I like the Katz Moses jig which ensures that your cuts are totally square. I don't cut enough dovetails to be really good without one as most of what I make does not benefit from the joint so I pull one off the wall when needed. One sneaky trick for your first sets is to leave the wood a bit long if you can, then if you screw up you can trim a bit off. By the time you get to cutting a set on a part you can't shorten you will have got the hang of it!