Replies

1. 
   milanuk | Dec 31, 2003 08:34pm | #1

   I'm thinking probably a planer. You can get by edge-joining boards either w/ a premium rip blade on a TS, or a router, or a hand plane. Planing to thickness by hand is a bit more time consuming. Dealing w/ cupped or twisted boards w/o a dedicated jointer is tricky, but doable.

   Monte

1. 
   NSXER | Dec 31, 2003 10:15pm | #2

   Makita made (still makes?) a 12" planer/6" jointer combo unit

   that is ####quality product that does not compromise either

   component...I think about $2K and worth it.

1. 
   jc21 | Jan 01, 2004 10:32pm | #3

   As to whether a jointer or planer,  I think it depends on what you will be doing. Lots of glue ups- the jointer might be the better choice. Have access to a sawmill and store/dry your own wood?- the planer may be more useful. Combo machines may be a good solution but note that the jointer beds tend to be on the short side.

   I don't believe the Makita 2030 jointer/planer combo machine ( or any of their stationary equipment) is available in the US anymore. It was and is an excellent machine; you may able to find a used machine for sale..  Hitachi still offers a similar machine, the P12RA  planer/jointer (about $1200 US). http://www.hitachi.us/Apps/hitachicom/content.jsp?page=WoodworkingTools/Planers/details/P12RA%20Woodworking%20Tools.htm&level=2&section=WoodworkingTools&parent=Planers&nav=left&path=jsp/hitachi/consumerproducts/PowerTools/ 

2. 
   user-450633 | Dec 02, 2004 03:51am | #4

   The other post reply is correct planer first then jointer as you can joint on table saw by hand, router and on planer(yes on planer)

   By router use ProFtr' or http://www.eurekazone.com or length of alum rect tube as straightedge. Take very little off with fresh bit.

   Planer: make torsion box rigid sled or equivalent with 90 degree clamps to edge joint(up to capacity of planer opening) but moreover to plane faces by shimming stock on "sled"