Replies

1. 
   DonC | Nov 28, 2005 08:05pm | #1

   #1.) The outfeed table is either set to high (rocking chair) or too low (end snipe). Trial and error will get it perfect. Also place a straigtedge the full length of both table set in the same plane to check fro any droop of the tabels. If droop exists, place shims in the gibs to set both tables in the same plane.

1. 
   Daleinok | Nov 28, 2005 08:49pm | #2

   Don C.

   Thanks for responding,  I put a four foot level across both infeed, blade, and outfeed making sure that all were exact.  I have also checked both ends for any droop, none exists.  I think my problem might be on how I push in and out (presure on top of board), or which side to press on going in coming out, etc.

   Thanks

   Dr. D. / cederworker 

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 28, 2005 09:42pm | #3

   Several things come to mind.  First, you don't want everything on zero--quite.  The outfeed table should be slightly below the blade.  Enough below that when you lay a straight edge on the outfeed table and rotate the blade by hand the straight edge moves about 1/8th of an inch. 

   When planing you want the downward pressure on the outfeed table, just beyond the blades.  On the infeed table you want to have pressure only pushing forward.  You have to compromise this a bit at the beginning of the cut, until the board gets beyond the cutters.  I use a shoe type pusher on the infeed end to provide a positive push with very little downforce on the infeed side.   

   In preparing wood for gluing into a panel you first have to flatten the face on the jointer, then use the planer to make the thickness uniform. 

   Kiln ("elm" ?)dried wood WAS dry (perhaps 8% moisture) but unless it remains in a dry atmosphere, it will begin to adjust to higher moisture levels, from the outside in of course.  Thats why you want to  remove about equal amounts of wood on each face of the wood.   When you "let it set" it should be stickered so air can move all around it.  The surest way to have it warp is to leave it flat on the bench. 

   After thicknessing, you joint one edge for glueing, and then rip the other edge parallel on the table saw.  Clean up the sawn edge on the jointer.  To check if the boards are properly jointed for gluing, clamp one board on edge, and then rest the other board on top.  With gentle hand pressure pushing the boards together, you should not be able to see light through the joint. 

   You can't force wood flat for gluing, it must be flat. 

    

    

3. 
   cowtown | Nov 29, 2005 10:47am | #4

   I can't see yer 4' level from up here in the GWN, but I do know that a level ain't automatically a "straight edge" ever since I seen (was it Stanley-I ain't sure, but it was a major mfgr) advertising a level that was curved so that it only touched at the ends.

   The only thing that functions as a straight-edge is called a "straight edge" and while in less critical functions make-do's such as a level will suffice, setting up machinery might be rationally expected from time to time to  require a tad more accuracy than a "level" could provide.

   I'm gonna suggest that you do some digging and find the original manuals for setting upe yer beastie (either on the web or from the mfgr)

   I don't think "powermatic" was a cheapo imported tool, and it would be in my opinion worth the time and effort expended to get it functional.

   The lessons you learn along the way will stay with you fer a long time.

   Cowtown Eric