Replies

1. 
   Ray | Oct 23, 2006 04:48am | #1

   Don't know too much about the Grizzly, mine's a prehistoric "Dunlap" (pre-Craftsman).  Which table's adjustable?  The outfeed should be higher than the infeed.  I set my outfeed table the same height as the cutter and the infeed about 1/16" lower.  Check back issues of FWW for a detailed jointer tune-up.

1. 
   AnthonyP | Oct 23, 2006 05:06am | #2

   thanks ray, both tables are adjustable.
   i will search past issues thanks again
   tony

2. 
   tinkerer2 | Oct 23, 2006 05:26am | #4

   If you are an old geezer like me, you already know this but I don't think the Dunlop is necessarily older that the Craftsman, it was the lesser quality.  In my early days, my father bought a Dunlop bench grinder - one of the best power tools he ever had.  Also, some of the more veteran woodworkers than I say the out feed table should be slightly higher than the infeed (paper thickness) to allow for the slight scallop of the cutting knives.

3. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Oct 23, 2006 07:26am | #7

   Ray, another old geezer that has a Dunlop 4 1/2" that Sears disowns as far as parts are concerned. It's a fine 3 blade machine, all cast iron, large bearings with oil caps but white metal fittings at the fence ends. A nice machine for light work(small stiles and rails, table aprons etc.) Just don't overload it.  it is a pity that Sears dosen't make them as  good today. Enjoy, Pat

1. 
   Ray | Oct 23, 2006 02:12pm | #8

   That old Dunlap I inherited is a real workhorse, on a wooden stand with a slot in it for the belt.  I did replace the motor a couple of years ago, hone the blades 2 or 3 times a year.  Can't seem to hurt it, but I am real careful with those fragile-looking end pieces.

2. 
   tinkerer2 | Oct 23, 2006 05:16am | #3

   By opposite end, do you mean the opposite end of the infeed table or the opposite end of the jointer.  If you mean the infeed table, then you have troubles and must take the proper adjustments to make the two tables parallel before you will get any good from the jointer.  If you mean the opposite end of the jointer, then you should be able to adjust the table down to take the proper cut.  No professional here.

3. 
   PeteBradley | Oct 23, 2006 05:41am | #5

   > The begining of the infeed table seems to be 1/64'' higher than the opposite end

   Not sure what you're measuring or how you're measuring it. First things first: how does the machine work? If the end product is ok, there's no need to change anything.

   Pete

1. 
   user-211435 | Oct 23, 2006 06:36am | #6

   Pete,

   The infeed table needs to be shimmed so that if both are set at the same height, they are in exactly the same plane.  You could also go to a good machine shop (or back to Grizzley) and have both surfaces fly-cut (surfaced) so they are perfect.

   You can probably do it yourself by adding shims to the top end of the ways (the end closest to the cutter, but you run the risk of them shifting as you will probably move the infeed table often.  I know I do.  I personally would shim the outfeed table rather than the infeed as it is not moved often.

   In use, basically, the outfeed table is set to the exact height that the cutters cut, and the infeed table is set to the amount you want to cut off with each pass, whether it is 1/32", 1/16", 1/8"...whatever.

   If you use the jointer and the boards turn out curved up, then the outfeed table is set too high.  If the boards end up sniping badly at the aft end, the outfeed table is too low.

   Hal

   http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com

    

    

1. 
   PeteBradley | Oct 23, 2006 09:48pm | #9

   I'm not the original poster, and I'm very familiar with getting a jointer dialed in. However, there's so much internet jointer advice that new users can lose sight of the fact that a reasonably new jointer with dovetailed ways rarely needs much adjustment. This poster mentioned "height", which if measured from the floor is not significant to jointer performance. Sure, we can break out our straightedges and dial indicators, but if the jointer works well, there's no need.Pete

1. 
   user-211435 | Oct 23, 2006 10:28pm | #10

   Pete,

   I interprited his use of the word height as in relation to the plane of the outfeed table.  I wouldn't think he was measuring from the floor.

   I have had experience with jointers that are out of alignment right out of the box.  An apprentice in my shop bought a new Delta 8" Professional jointer about 2 years ago that was incredibly out of whack, despite the dovetail ways, both end wise and cross wise.  A Delta technician looked at it and gave him his money back.  It was either warped or had been dropped, I think.

   No reason to not buy a Delta jointer though.  He bought another one, although a better one, and it worked well.

   I agree that if it works, just use it.  But because of the function that a jointer is supposed to serve, the tables need to be in the same plane. 

   You are right that some novices get a little too wrapped up in the technical thing.  We are working with giant plants (trees) here! 

   Hal   

1. 
   PeteBradley | Oct 23, 2006 10:57pm | #11

   I think we're in agreement.  The tables of course need to be in the same plane.   Unless there's a manufacturing defect, serious abuse or severe wear though, it's very unlikely that a machine needs to be reground.  The way some folks talk, you'd think regrinding or shimming is typical. 

    

   Pete

2. 
   user-211435 | Oct 23, 2006 11:34pm | #12

   I don't think it is typical.  There are too many machines sold to have this problem in very many. 

   I think Grizzley guarantees their machines or they will regrind them.  I would actually be surprised if this jointer we are talking about is all that bad.  Sometimes it is just a matter of always stopping on the way up rather than the way down, or vice versa, when adjusting.

   I did have a jointer that I was given many years ago.  It had been in a shop fire that warped it.  I took it to a local machine shop that charged me something like $20 (thirty years ago), and it was perfect.

   Hal