I need help deciding on one of two 6″ jointers.. the Delta and the Jet.
Both are priced the same ($550) and appear to have similar features.. except that the Jet has a built in rabbeting ledge. Is that a big plus?
I’d appreciate any comments on the relative virtues of these two jointers.
Thanks,
Bill
P.S. If you bought a 6″ jointer and wish you’d bought an 8″ I don’t want to hear from you! LOL
Replies
I haven't compared the two but I think Delta's quality has slipped the last several years while Jet's seems to have gone up, so I would take a straight edge to the tables and fence to see if one is better, then just kinda compare features.
Dust collection
bearing size
motor HP, voltages
and just the touchy feely stuff
crank wheels etc
Myles
Chief, yeah, as I mentioned to John I think I'll go with the Jet. And I appreciate your taking the time. I got a Delta 13 inch benchtop planer for Christmas and learned from a buddy of mine that planer ain't much use without a jointer.
Bill,
Rabbeting ledges are a throwback to earlier times, I haven't seen or read about anyone using them in the 30 plus years I've been in woodworking.
I haven't looked up the details about either of the machines you are considering, but I would recommend against buying any machine that adjusts the outfeed table height with a lever. The height of an outfeed table needs to be fine tuned to within a few thousandths of an inch in height for the straightest cut, this precision is almost impossible to achieve with a lever adjuster. Lever adjusters have some advantage on the infeed table but thet aren't a necessity and they can be hard to adjust if they're poorly designed or poorly maintained.
John W.
John, thanks for the input. I notice the Jet has handwheels to adjust the infeed and outfeed which I take it you prefer. It also has the rabbeting ledge.
Now that you say they are somewhat anachronistic I feel safe in asking you what the heck it's used for.
I was kind of leaning toward the Jet because of the machined tables.
I agree with HW for outfeed. Important. I do use my rabbeting ledge on occassion. My most recent use was cutting back a 2 1/2" step in some window-sill stock (out of a 6" board. It was the quickest and most accurate way to do it. In other words, it is great for wide rabbets. I might also use it if I needed to cut many rabbets. It is quieter than a router set up to do the same task.
Some might say they would put a dado head on the TS. But why change blades when the jointer is ready to go with just a fence and height adjustment? It is also easier to set up than a router (get the bit; remove the one you left in last time; put the new one in; set up up for height; adjust the fence).
Given that you are not going to step up to 8", I would still try to maximize length. It will prove to be valuable over time when jointing long stock.
I also agree that Delta jointers are not so hot in the quality dept. I think they spell it kwality.
I guess my preference between these two would be the Jet because of the more conventional fence mount and on/off switch placement. The Delta has the rack and pinion fence adjust that sticks out the back quite a ways. It also has a stem mounted switch that gets in the way if you have a small shop. Neither of those features are a disadvantage if you've got lotsa space.
My true preference would be for the General 6" jointer for ~ $520. It's built similarly to the Jet, but has 55" long tables.
I might prefer the General, too but I can get the Jet at Woodcraft here in Houston and don't have to have it shipped. Thanks for weighing in, scotty.
just my 2 cents.
I only have experience with one piece of jet machinery, its a 13" planer molder. I can honestly say it might be the worst piece of machinery I will ever use. I had it shipped in to my regular machinery supplier because my favorite manufacturer (King) had their own planer/molder on backorder. it ended up costing about $300 more than the King. when it arrived very very late it was badly damaged from shipping - no problem, jet sent out the new parts right away. on top of that it is made with plastic hand wheels that are constantly flexing under the stress of raising the table- not to mention the dont give you a dust hood for it, you have to buy that ($60) seperately, and you cant use the machine without it. the Jet full of problems, I'm just so utterly disappointed with it.
Granted I don't have experience with any other machines from them so I cant compare anything else, but I can safely say I will never buy a jet again.
It might be worth doing a little more homework and ordering a machine in that has a very good rep.
check http://www.kingcanada.com to take a look at the jointer I have and am more than happy with.
Custom Cabinetry and Furniture
http://www.BartlettWoodworking.com
Gecko.. thanks. I will very closely scrutinize the Jet jointer before I make a purchase.
If it has plastic anything.. it's out.
Sorry to hear that your planer molder has problems. I have the older Jet model , blue paint , open stand.I haven't had any problems with it. I have only used the planer mode, never tried to run molding yet. I am not sure my handwheel is plastic or metal, I check tommorow.The crank goes up and down easily, I lubricate the gear post with spray lithium grease once in awhile. I made a dust hood for it, without the hood it would be a mess.Only problem that I had was installing new blades, the blades would move a hair when tightening jib screws. This is a common problem with jointers and planers. Benchmark Woodworking internet site solves this problem easily. By the way this fellow has the same planer molder we do.
mike
installing new blades has been a bit of a problem for me also, but from what I understood also, this is to expected.
last night I was trying to plane down a board and the hand wheel would NOT turn no matter what I tried. in the past I've simply had to tighten some hex head screws under the base to make it work (albeit with difficulty) but last night it wouldn't budge.
another thing that leads me to believe there is something wrong is when I go to turn the wheel there are a few turns worth of slack to take up.
I wont get rid of the machine because of the molder feature on it, but I am currently looking for a new 24" planer to take the majority of the work.
Custom Cabinetry and Furniture
http://www.BartlettWoodworking.com
Bill,
I've got a 6"Jet (wish I'd bought that 8" Delta instead:), and I've got some gripes about it. It's perfectly functional, but the adjustments have about 15 turns of slack to take up before anything moves. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, and I thought something was broke, but I don't think so now. Just a lemon maybe?
I'd give that Delta a close look before I bought the Jet.
Steve, that slack is not normal. I have the Jet also. Did you buy it new? Why did ya put up with that??forestgirl Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The Jet and Sunhill are made by Geetec. You can purchase the Sunhill for about $350 plus shipping.
Hi FG,
No, I bought it used. It was the second shop tool that I bought, and I had no clue. Its a blue one, looks just like Sarge's, Sunhill. I guess I put up with it cause I never adjust it. Just set for a light cut, then use it to give me one square edge. Nearly everything else is TS or hand plane work.
Maybe I'll come across a big old jointer for cheap one of these days, and I'll just replace it. It's on the list. You guys have any ideas as to where the slack comes from?
On a personal note, I've been away for a month and a half (new baby in the NICU), and I just learned about Tooldoc last night. I hope his wife and family are doing OK, he will be missed here. I bet he would have had something to say on this thread. I like yours and Sarge's tributes.
Take care,
Steve
Steve, Super-Congrats on the baby!!!!! Hope all the complications have smoothed out.
Yep, TD is very much missed. I think of him when I break out the scroll saw or see a "Delta girl", LOL!
Glad that the jointer wasn't new! Sounds like it might be a fairly easy fix. Sarge'll help you out. forestgirl Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I have been exceptionally pleased with the Ridgid 6 inch jointer, avalilable for a lot less money from Home Depot. (Some of the Ridgid tools are better than others - this one is good.) It has the precision adjust capabilities (which I haven't had to use), the dado ledge (which I use occasionally when other tools are set up for something else), good straight castings, easily sharpened/adjusted blades, etc.
But I really wish I had gotten an 8 inch rather than 6 inch. When I am planning a project I never can find an 8 inch board, but when I pick a rough cut piece and start to clean it up, it always seems to be at least 6 1/2 inches wide. ________________________Charlie Plesums Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood
The Deltas have a neat feature-a self adjusting jointer blade. The blades sit in a gib which is spring loaded, and when slacked, force themselves up. Slack them, put a straight edge over the outfeed table, and the knives are automatically ajusted. Then tighten them down. I don't believe that anyother machine has this terrific time saver.
You can be positively stupid, and adjust your jointer knives in about 5 minutes.
Kelsey
bill
I agree with DJK that the Sunhill is basically the same. I bought mine for $329 (current price) plus shipping ($80) for a bottom line of $409. If you look closely, you won't notice any difference in the two. The Sunhill doesn't come with the dust hood(about $12), but everyone that has bought one gets them to throw it in. The big difference is the Sunhill does come with two 3" table extentions giving you a 52" bed. Second only to General at 55". Jet is 46" and IMO, that makes the big difference. You might look at their web-site and compare to your door prices.
http://www.sunhillmachinery.com
Dirt Stirrer: Agree with FG that the play is not normal on a Jet or Sunhill....
Regards...
sarge..jt
Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Hi Sarge,
Check out my post to FG. Don't mean to hijack this thread, but you have any ideas as to where the slack comes from? Steve
Dirt
Dirt, I like that as it's very down to earth! :>)
First and foremost, cngratulations on the new baby. Enjoy now before they become teen-agers. ha..ha...
The hand crank has a wheel at the outer end of course. Take a flash-light and look at where the rod goes. It is not threaded on the crank end (attached with a square tip that slides in the crank and a screw). It passes through a clamp about 4" up the shaft. Still not threaded. Then the threads begin and they thread directly into the base that moves the table up and down. Little room for error, unless........
Does the play appear on both sides? When you say play, do you mean having to turn it several times to get the table to move any substantial distance? Is the crank turning on that end of the shaft freely and then catch (possible strip of the square end)? Does it turn freely on the attached end where you see the threads going into the threaded metal block that moves the table up and down (possible strip that end, even though not likely on both sides)?
If the answer is it has play on both sides (several turns to get substantiaol movement), that is normal on a hand-crank type of jointer. A lever operated gets it there quickly, but not as precise as a hand crank. You do have to turn a hand crank several times just to see a 1/16" rise or fall of the table. I'm hoping this is the case.
To see what happens up inside there totally, you will have to un-bolt the upper portion from the base and turn it over. If what I have described above is not the visible cause, this is what you need to do. The interior system that moves it is very simple and not much can go wrong. Having bought it used, you just don't know but I doubt anyone could have stripped it unless my teen-ager got his hands on it. ha.. ha...
And be sure to post back here if possible as you sure got my curiousity aroused. Good luck with the search.
Regards...
sarge..jt Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Sarge,
I'm a farmer, hence the name. Although this time of year it could be mud stirrer :)
Now I'm curious about that jointer, so as soon as the wife gets home, and my baby sitting shift is over, I'll go check it out. I'll keep you posted.
Steve
Sarge your teen ager must have been over. I dug around on it, checked what you suggested, then went deeper. Turns out the "ball crank" (looks like a yoke to me) is broke. It would jam onto the pin just enough to get some movement, but certainly not the right amount.
I bet someone tried to adjust it with the lock engaged.
I checked the Jet site for parts avalibility, and amazingly, they have PDF manuals and parts diagrams for every Jet tool I could think of. I'd hate to try to explain to a parts guy that I need a yoke, when I really wanted a ball crank.
I've got a Jet cabinet saw too, and I guess I always kind of considered Jet to be the cheaper copy of the good tool. Now I'm changing my mind. Good tools, and nice support. Now if I could just get a replacement for that magnified cursor on the Xacta fence...Steve
Steve, I've found the Jet tech support people to be very helpful. Glad you found out what you need for the jointer. I'm sure they can send a replacement for the cursor too!forestgirl Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Dirt
I knew it wouldn't be too diffucult to find the problem. The guts are pretty simple to figure once you see them. Kind of like a tractor really (long time ago for me).
You should be able to replace it and get rolling. I would guess that someone forced it when it was locked also. Hard to imagine an adult was that...... well never mind! ha.. ha...
I am not familar with the Xacta fence. Doesn't the company that makes them sell replacement parts? Seems odd that they wouldn't. But as I stated, no Xacta guru here. :>)
Regards...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Sarge,
Yup, somebody wasn't paying attention. Must have been pretty tough to break that piece, it's a fairly robust casting.
The cursor on my Jet table saw's Xacta fence,(Biesmeyer copy), has a little magnifier built into it. They claim it's a good deal, but I hate it. Look straight down to read the scale and your fine. Move to one side or another, and you get a 1/16th or so off. I prefer Delta's non magnified version. Thats what I was talking about.
Take care,
Steve
Steve, isn't there some kind of cursor design where there are 2 cursor lines, probably one on top of the other (on each side of the plexi?) and when they "become one" while looking at them, you're dead on? Seems like I saw it at a show once. Wonder if you could modify yours to do that?forestgirl Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Now that is a good idea. I'll google for it, although it sounds pretty easy to build. Seems like you could do something with a mirrored tape too. Thanks FG.Steve
Hi Steve, the word "parallax" comes to mind. I think it was on a table saw, but can't remember if it was a stock fence or aftermarket. I didn't have any luck Googling. Let me know if you do, or are successful with a DIY version!forestgirl Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Sarge.. thanks for your input on jointers. I ended up buying the Delta and really like it so far.
Another question. I think I remember from looking at pics of your shop that you had a small, benchtop bandsaw.. like a Rigid or something.. that sells for around $100.
If my memory is correct about this.. are you satisfied with such a small bandsaw?
I'm really thinking about buying one and if the difference between a small one and a big is not too great.. I'd love to go the inexpensive route. Please let me know.
Bill
bill
The pic of the jointer had a small scroll-saw with home-made stand beside it. I do have a small BS mounted solidly on a home-made base. It's a Jet 12" I keep a 1/4" 6 tpi skip-tooth on for outside cutting and general work. For this purpose it works fine. With the addition of a Highland Hardware 1/2" 3 tpi Wood-Slicer I can re-saw up to 5 3/4", but that is pushing it with a 1/2 HP motor. Pretty limited to soft-woods.
If I have heavy re-saw I go next door to my neighbors. He builds out-door furniture professionally and has a MM 16". He also has a large hoss TS when I come up short on my 2HP. This fulfills my needs, but may not yours if you plan to do a lot of re-saw.
Highly reccomend staying away from a smaller BS unless you just do small model work, etc. Here's some reasons:
The cheapies in this case usually have cheap bearings, not well designed, in-adequate power, cheap un-balanced wheels and are just very limited in what they can do (even more so of what they can do well).
I would at least reccomend a 1 HP. I think the new Griz is a good choice there as it has better bearing than some of the 1 HP's and it comes with the fence, etc. With a riser block, you still only got about $480 give or take invested to your door. With proper bladed it will get you there.
If you are really serious with re-saw, I would go to at least 1 1/2 HP or 2HP. Greater depth of cut without a riser (sturdier column resulting). This would require a 220V hook-up with those choices mostly. This is a re-saw issue mainly. My 12" Jet will do most everything that the "big boys" will do if just used for general cutting. But, it won't hold a candle to them on re-saw.
I tried to cover some ground here. You know your needs and are in better position to decide than anyone by just being honest. If you need the big boy now or in the future, I would hold out till you got the resources. DON'T just go buy something so you have a BS in the shop. GET the one that will fill you needs now and as you forecast the future!
Regards...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Sarge, thanks for answering my questions and for posting the pic of your Jet bandsaw.. which immediately refreshed my memory of having seen it before.
A guy from Austin emailed me and recommended the Grizzly GO555 which he bought after having bought (regretfully he says) both a Jet and a Delta.
After hearing you also recommend the Grizzly I definitely think I'm going to look into it more and go that route.
The reason I want a B/S is for resawing.. and for tasks that are safer done on a B/S than a T/S because of kickback.
Thanks again, Sarge. I appreciate your and everyone's generosity in sharing time and experience.
Bill
Dear Bill,
I haven't read all of the postings, so forgive me if this is a repeat. The Powermatic 54A can be had for $750.00 or less, delivered to your doorstep. I have it and it is an excellent tool! Longer bed than the others that you mentioned, (66") and longer is better! (So I've been told :-) ) It does make it easier having the longer beds. Particularly if this is your first jointer. That being said I DO wish that I had gotten the 8", sorry. The Grizzly 8" is about $850.00 or so. I have been considering upgrading my jointer. It's about a year old, so if you are in New England perhaps we can work something out. Good Luck!
John
Bill,
I know that you said you didn't want to hear about 8" Jointers but I'm new and ignorant to so many things that I'm willing to pretend I didn't catch that for this one issue.
I'm a beginning woodworker, in fact I'm in the middle of my first project, so I don't have alot of experience. The point in telling you that is so that you'll understand how little experience it took for me see the difference between a 6" and 8" Jointer. Last summer I went to a friends who had purchased a Grizzly Planer/Moulder and a Grizzly 6" Jointer.
We played with the machines all afternoon and I could easily see that the 6" Jointer was neither long enough nor wide enough for the kind of woodworking I wanted to do (Furniture). In understanding how a Jointer and Planer differ it not only makes a difference in being able to Joint long boards but for FACE JOINTING wider boards. If you plan to create panels you will either have to use 6" wide boards or you'll have to do all the work by hand. I decided to hold out and saved even longer and purchased the Grizzly 8" Jointer. I, personally am thrilled with it though I note that of all the Grizzly equipment out there I have never seen this particular unit "Praised" in any way. I'm not sure why. IMO, unless you are planning on making smaller projects I think you will soon be wishing you had gone 8".
As has often been the case in my life, I always seem to have at least one friend that has "seemingly unlimited income". During the times that me and these friends have become interested in the "same" things they have often been in a position to "run out and buy something" without much thought while I have had to excercise patience and hard work to get what I wanted. In many cases these friends have provided a valuable service in buying something we both thought we wanted and helped me in finding out that I didnt want it after all. Another bonus is that on occasion, while I'm saving, a better offer arrives on the scene, or the price of what I'm after comes down. :)
Cheers,
G
"There's my robe, and then there's everything else"
I wouldn't worry or even think about the lack of praise posted about your model jointer. If it makes you glad you bought it, it's a fine machine! I'm gonna' buy an 8" jointer sometime in the future and it will most likely be the Grizzly longbed. I'm trying to psych myself into springing for the spiral cutter model but the jury's still out on that one. Enjoy your equipment regardless of what anyone says of fails to say about it!!
Regards,
Mack
Mack
I think saucyg was mistaken about not having the 8" Griz "praised". If it was not, I don't think it was in the forum (maybe a few, but very few), I have seen nothing but "praise" about it since it came out. I don't recall anyone that bought it not thinking it was a tremendous "bang for the buck".
He might have seen that in a tool review? Makes you wonder somtimes as Delta, Jet, etc. are heavy advertisers on those particular mags. A good example is a recent review of 14" BS's. They used the old Griz 14" instead of the new one with a lot of features at a great price. For someone that doesn't keep abreast of machines, that could be very decieving. Might lead one to over-look that particular Griz and IMO that would be a big mistake if shopping for 14" BS's especially on a budget.
Regards...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
As long as we're still on the subject, what is your opinion about the spiral cutter head design. I don't know any one that has one. The concept looks good in the Grizzly catalog. It looks to me as if there is no adjustment of the blades. You just screw them to the cutter head and that's that. If that's the case it would be a plus. Griz' advertises that you get four edges for the price of one. Then what? Toss them and buy more? Even if they could be sharpened, it would be expensive to sharpen all those edges commercially and time intensive to do it yourself if that is possible. Sounds like a waste. Regular knives will last me forever as I don't do production.
Does the design give that much better results? Grizzly claims superior results on figured wood. That would be great; are they to be believed? Who developed this design? Any comments would be welcome! Thanks!
Mack
Mack and Sarge,
Thanks for your comments. I'm not at all concerned about the "lack of praise" that I referred to in my earlier post about the 8" Grizzly. And you're both right. I love mine, and have talked to others that loved theirs. I also feel good about buying from Grizzly because I live 1/2 hour from the Bellingham showroom. The lack of praise, I feel, was in the lack of reviews of the Grizzly 8". It actually does seem a little "suspicious" to me because if there was something wrong with it I think someone could, and would, say that. Grizzly owners always have praise for their machines; and the tool reviews I've read seem subdued or leave Grizzly equipment out altogether. Theoretically tool reviews are meant to be objective and factual in order to counteract the emotional attachment that many people have to the equipment they own or to certain brands they like. Plenty of money is spent every year creating these bonds. I don’t suspect that "all" Grizzly Machines are the greatest as each manufacturer has their lemons. I agree Mack; the only thing that matters is the machine works for ME.
I don’t know about the spiral cutterheads and haven't gone to look yet. The obvious advantages have been discussed with regard to downtime and the ability to change blades but I guess that means if you get a "nick" in the blade, what you really get is a nick in the BLADES which means you have to change how many? I guess you also have to keep track of which ones you have rotated also. I understand they are indexed? So it's easy to put them in place and forgetaboutit...? It does sound like it will put you in a "dependent" situation regarding the sharpening or repurchasing of the blades but I'm not sure about what's required for resharpening.
For a guy living a half hour from the showroom I guess I'm not much help :)
Cheers,
G
More wine, and fresh horses for all my men!
saucyg
Enjoy your 8" Griz and if you need anyone to safe-gaurd it while you go on vacation, drop it by and I will gladly perform the task. he.. he...
Regards...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I would not spend the extra money on spiral cutter heads. Cost is very high. You also become locked into a special cutter insert that may not always be available (or for the price you are willing to pay). There is nothing fundamentally different in the cutting geometry in my opinion that would give you a significantly better cut.
I would agree that noise would be reduced. Earmuffs cost much less than one of these heads.
Mack
I can tell you very little about the dynamics behind the spiral cutter-heads. I have not re-searched it as I have no personal need. Like you I am quite happy with the traditional system employed. If I were a commercial concern where time and reduced labor were a concern, I would look into it closer.
I will relate it to the golf game I use to have in the 70's and 80's. I had about a 6 handicap (78) with traditional clubs. Never felt the need to go to trick clubs or drivers. What would I gain? Extra yards off the tee is a mis-conception. Strokes are saved on and around the "putting green". A 300+ yard drive means little when you can't hit the green with a wedge and then 3-putt to boot. ha.. ha.. ha..ha..ha..
As a general rule I hand scrap or use a scraping plane on all my projects after they go through the jointer or planer. That about eliminates any advantage a spiral C/H might give me as time is not an essense. I'm looking for a certain "end effect" and the spiral cutter-head or traditional cutter-head won't give it to me. The scrapers, etc. get the call after the stock gets the initial prep on the jointer or planer.
Sorry I couldn't be more help on that one, but I will probably never own a spiral cutter-head unless I won it as a "door prize". I have a feeling you agree. ha.. ha..
Regards...
sarge..jt Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I also hand scrape almost everything that comes off the planer. If I had an 8" jointer there would be no way I'd even consider replacing it with an 8" spiral cutter. The 4" jointer I've been using for almost 20 years has been an excellent tool but the time is drawing near for it to get a new home.
The difference in price between the regular and spiral cutter head is around $300 (I think) so if I'm going to make the plunge I think it should be considered.
The concept looks to me similar to using a skew angled plane which almost always helps me in my planing.
The dependence issue mentioned by another poster is well founded but with four edges to use, two sets of cutters would likely last me the rest of my life. I have an old 15" Grizzly planer with two sets of knives. Have had it since 1987 and have done three knife setting evolutions.
I think I'll try reposting this question and see what comes of it.
Thanks for your insight! (However the "golf thing" was lost on me as I've golfed four times in my life and then only as an excuse to drink beer and laugh a lot)
Regards,
Mack
Hey Bill
If you go with the Delta,get the X5 series mod #37-275x ,it's identical to the other 6' mod#37-195 but you have the choice of a free tool (drill/router/mobile base or Brad nailer) or rebate plus 5 years warranty for the same price as the other one.
I've bought one, it works great, the only draw back is that it does stand far from the wall because of the fence system but if you got the room for it,it's a nice piece of kit.
Slim
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and for sharing their knowledge of jointers.
I went to Woodcraft Saturday all set to buy the Jet.. but wound up buying the Delta after examining both and visiting with the very knowledgable salesman.
They also had a 6" Powermatic with the longer table ($200 more) but the primary reasons I chose the Delta are as follows:
1) Higher fence.. which moves very fluidly on it's rack and pinion track.
2) On/Off switch mounted up high where you can get at it easy and quickly.
3) Fit and finnish seemed better and more substantial than the Jet.
4) Table size seems adequate and sized right for my cramped garage workshop.
5) Got a free mobile base.
6) 5 year warranty.. and there is a Delta Service Center in Houston where I live.
7) The Woodcraft guys assembled it for me and loaded it on my truck.
Also, (on Forest Girl's recommendation) my wife bought me a Delta 13" two speed planer (fabulous tool) for Christmas.. and after watching the video that came with it Friday night, (in which the Delta jointer is demonstrated), I was sold on the Delta as a companion to my planer.
Up to now I've been all sheetgoods. Now I'm ready to learn something new and can't wait to get started.
Soon I'll be asking you all about a bandsaw!
Thanks again everyone..
Bill
bill,
Congrats on the Jointer.
You don't want to hear this..but....Rockler has a fabulous deal on Delta 28-206 bandsaws.....Normally $559, current $409.....
Story of my life. Thanks, though.
Bill
Another thought! I was considering the Jet as you are (I have a lot of Jet equipment and am very satisfied) but noticed that the Powermatic for some $ more had tables that were almost as long as the 8" jointer from Jet. I bought the 6" Powermatic and am very satisfied.
Bill,
Given the choice between Jet and Delta,,,,,I'd rather do it by hand.These two companies have let their quallity slip in recent years to the point that I no longer consider either when i look at new equipment. I understand that price is important, but you need to look at the long hual. I was (am) very happy with my first 6" jointer I bought in 1993 from Grizzly, the same machine still sells for about $390 plus shipping. a few years latter I "upgraded" to an 8" delta that was such a pain I didn't bother to move it from my shop in Florida to the new place here in Arkansas. I took a beating selling it to my neighbor who "reluctanly" took it off my hands.
I point you to Grizzly because for a small shop with big ideas I feel you get the most bang for your buck, and a 6"jointer under $400.00 is at least worth looking at! But before you buy, look at the new 6" Grizzly with the spiral head cutter and 60" bed,,$850.00 but I got to tell you, spiral head cutters are the cat's behind for jointers! My new G0500 8" has this cutter and all I can say is WOW! why didn't someone think of this before!
sorry if I sounded like a sales-rep,,but I now have 11 Grizzly machines in my shop and doubt I can stop buying from them.
bill,
I have the Jet. There is a little backlash to the handwheels. Not too much, but enough to be irritating. Otherwise its been a good machine for 8 years. I too wish I would have stepped up to a 8" model when I first bought it. The width of my jointer is my single biggest hurdle in planning furniture projects. I joint pieces wider than 6" with a router/rail/carriage system that is cumbersome, slow and hard on the back. Therefore I have to really want to keep a board wider than six inches (which is almost always) included in my projects.
Willie
"De Oppresso Liber"
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