Replies

1. 
   jazzdogg | Jan 16, 2003 03:10am | #1

   A rubber-faced grout float works great!

2. 
   jackiechan | Jan 16, 2003 06:25am | #2

   Ron,

   Here's something that has worked well for me.  Find an old computer mouse pad (the thinner the better), and if possible peel off the fabric top layer.  Lay your wooden block on top of the pad and use a razor knife to cut a piece to size.  To attach the rubber to the wood, I use Shoe-Goo.  You'll be able to find it at sporting goods stores.  If you've never seen it before, Shoe-Goo is made to repair damaged rubber soles on shoes, boots, rain wear, etc.  I've even used it to reattach foam pads in my ice hockey helmet.  It's highly resilient, tenaciously adhesive, and inexpensive.  Evenly spread on a thin layer on the wood, and clamp it against another block over night.

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

1. 
   timberrattler | Jan 16, 2003 05:52pm | #3

   you stole my Idea?

3. 
   UncleDunc | Jan 16, 2003 10:02pm | #4

   I saw a picture somewhere of a push block about that size that had a square cornered recess milled into the bottom, or two applied fences, so it could both push the workpiece against the fence and through the jointer. It also had two handles shaped about like hand plane totes. You might need several of them for different width boards.

   The thing I liked about it was that it was hard to imagine anything happening to it that would leave you still pushing your hand toward the cutter and no push block in the way. I've heard of push sticks breaking up on the table saw and hands getting jammed into the blade. That's when I decided if I ever get a table saw I'll be getting a power feeder. Not only will I not stand in line with the blade, I may even leave the room. :)

1. 
   ron61 | Jan 16, 2003 10:27pm | #5

   What ? you lost me

   Ron

1. 
   UncleDunc | Jan 17, 2003 02:02am | #7

   Sorry. I probably misunderstood what you're trying to do. If you have a specific question about my response, I'll try to answer it.

4. 
   WesTiff | Jan 17, 2003 12:09am | #6

   Two thoughts, both in line with what's been said before.  For the front "pusher" I use a cement finishing pad, but with the screws that held the handle to the base removed and replaced with glued in dowels.  The back pusher is home made, a chunk of scrap about 3" wide, 10" long, and 1" thick with a 1/4" "lip" glued to it's trailing edge to grip the stock.  The handle is from a worn out hand saw inlet and glued into the top.  A refinement, fences could be glued to the outer edges of both to help hold the stock against the fence, but I don't find 'em really necessary.

   Wes

5. 
   mike4244 | Jan 17, 2003 08:55am | #8

   Ron, add two 3/8" diameter dowels to your wooden push block.Tap them in a fairly snug hole on each side of the back of the push block. I make mine about 1" over size so I can tap them down if they are planed off.The dowels stick down 3/8" below block.This can be used only on the end of the stock.This push block won't slip, use a flat one for the areas in front of the board.