Until now I’ve been doing all my joining by hand with an old #8, but as I start to make more and larger things, I’d like to move to power to speed up the process.
The first thing I need to know (before I go to the store and make a fool of myself) is the t silent? I’ve head some people say joiner and others jointer.
Right now I’m primarily using shorter lengths of around two feet but can definitely see the need to make a bookcase with solid sides, of about four feet in height.
I was given an old jointer from grandpa’s garage that I’m assembling. Its an unmarked tool probably from the seventies. The motor works now but I have yet to bolt on the top. After I do, is there any set up required? If I remove the blades for sharpening is it an ordeal to reinstall them? Are special tools required?
As far as safety goes, is a smaller benchtop model any different than a larger floor standing unit for small pieces? By small I mean two feet long and two inches thick.
Feel free to assume I know nothing and would love to hear any advice on the subject as well as links to online jointer resources.
jeremy
Replies
The machine is a jointer, with a t. You'll probably continue to hear both, just like you'll see hobbiest instead of hobbyist here. :)
Jeremy,
Regarding safety, as long you have function blade guard in place, there isn't much difference between a bench model or a free standing jointer. I have a '50s vintage 4" craftsman benchtop jointer that I used for several years before I inherited by grandpa's '50s vintage Delta 6" stationary jointer. Your methods of work regarding both technique and safety are pretty much identical.
Jim
Technically the machine is a jointer/planer. It can both plane a board as well as straighten and square the edge of a board for joining by gluing. In recent years the name has been shortened in popular usage.
Since you have no experience with such a machine, I strongly suggest that you determine its brand name and then try to obtain a manual for it before trying to use it. They can be devilishly dangerous. You certainly should have a pair of push blocks available for safety as well as a working blade guard.
Adjusting blades is usually a pain to learn to do. Once experienced, it is pretty easy. Usually it can be done with screw driver or hex wrench. There was a thread a while back on the subject. You might wish to search for it.
Bench top jointer/planers work like their larger cousins. Most do not have adjustable outfeed tables like the big ones (except older Craftsman jointers).
Cadiddlehopper
When you hear someone saying "joiner" instead of jointer when referring to that big upside-down planer, it's because they aren't keeping straight between a biscuit joiner and a jointer.
One difference with the benchtop models is that they may not have an adjustable outfeed table. Some I've heard about (individual machines) have been badly twisted in the tables (makes the tables not coplanar, yields pretty poor results).
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 10/4/2006 10:46 am by forestgirl
I put the top to the base today and it turns out its a Rockwell. The belt comes up from the bottom of the cabinet and it looks as though there should be a cover there to reduce the size of the opening, but gone it is. There is a bit of surface rust, but nothing serious.
There are two wheels on the front face of the machine. The rear one raises and lowers the rear end of the table and the front one appears to tilt the outfeed end. I have the back set for no cut and the front level too it but the cutter still its the straight edge; I guess the rear need to come up further. How should the two be set in relation to each other during operation?
Also the blade cover spring is missing and the cover doesn't return to the safe position. Are there parts out there for such things? Maybe I should just get a new bench top jointer. And suggestions?
jeremy
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