I have recently purchased my first jointer, an 8″ Grizzly model. Previously I performed all my jointing on my router table and became fairly adept, even with small pieces. My question is what size pieces are safe to run through the jointer, both for face planing and jointing. The blade guard is fairly thick on my machine which makes it impossible to surface narrow pieces thinner than the guard using push blocks. Any advice would be appreciated.
Dan Ives
Replies
The owners manual should provide you with length and width guidelines.. if not, you can call up the pdf. manual for another jointer and follow that guidance.
Generally speaking you don't want to run anything on your jointer that is shorter in length than 12 to 15 inches.
I've had no problem jointing pieces (on the same jointer) that got thinner than the lip on the guard. Bit of a pain, but still works. I try to keep the push blocks to the outside edge of the wood to keep the guard out of the way. I think I've gone below 1/2" but it's been a while since I've done anything that thin.
Dlves,
I wouldn't put anything across the jointer that is not at least three times the length of the throat opening. That way, you have 2/3 of the stock on the table at all times. Always use a handled push block and take light passes on these parts. I have installed a small stop block at the back edge of our push blocks to catch the back edge of the material, and this keeps the block from sliding forward off the stock. Until you are more experienced on this machine, however, I suggest that you use the 15" length as a minimum. The jointer has a bit of a learning curve, and it can be a very dangerous machine.
Edited 10/1/2005 7:27 am ET by Segil
Thanks to everyone for the advice. The owners manual does not address this issue and this does seem to be an inherently dangerous, yet valuable, machine. The first project for which I've used it is a desk with tapered legs. I cleaned up the tapered edges on the jointer and it performed flawlessly. I did find that the bottom dimension of the legs, 1 1/4", was a little tight for the push blocks but certainly manageable. What is the minimum dimension of a square piece that people feel comfortable running through and does anyone use push sticks or other devices besides push blocks?
Dan Ives
Make your own push blocks/sticks! I have 2 or 3 (should have more; lazy) and use them as much on the jointer as on the table saw. I like the handle to lean out over the body of the block/stick. Feels more stable and enables me to change the pressure point somewhat.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Thanks for all the suggestions. I will certainly make some push blocks/sticks. I figured it was a good idea to ask advice before doing something finger threatening on a new piece of equipment.
Dan
Dan,
Build a single piece, two handed push block for parts that may be thin enough to slip under the cutter guard. Something reminiscent of a jointer hand plane. You will still be able to balance the applied pressure needed to the wood being planed, and at the same time, the thickness of the push block will be tall enough to move the guard out of the way.
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
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