Hi,
I just put my fence on the jointer and now I’m ready to check the infeed and outfeed tables and the knifes. I’m looking for advice on doing this. Also can I feep the infeed table at 1/16 and make several passes without changing the height of the knifes or the infeed table. Also does the outfeed table have to be in line with the infeed table.
I hope that I said that right or someone undrestands what I’m talking about.
thanks
Steve
Replies
If this is a new machine, you probably don't need to mess with it at all. Take a few passes and see how it works. If this is an old machine that you just put back together, take a look at:
http://www.owwm.com/FAQ/JointerTune.asp
If you just need to set knives, do a search on Knots and you'll find a zillion methods. I just use the "tick a straightedge" method, but you can also look at Bob Vaughan's excellent article at:
http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/FAQ/JointerKnives.pdf
Pete
Check the story at the link below. There might be something in it that wold be of help.
I also think that if it is a new machine, chances are it won't need anything done to the tables. Most of them are ground flat after they are assembled to the bases. However, it does not hurt to check!
http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/usejntr.html
Tom Hintz
Because there is always more to learn!
"...does the outfeed table have to be in line with the infeed table." The outfeed table needs to be coplanar with the infeed table. Hence the handiness of a long straight-edge. You want to be sure that neither table dips at the far end, for instance, or has any twist in it. You set the table dead-even to check this.
The outfeed table will always be higher than the infeed table when you are removing stock. More precisely, the infeed table is lower than the outfeed, since the infeed is the one that you change to change the depth of cut. I'm no jointer expert, but I generally remove less than 1/16" per pass.
Sounds like you've already check the fence 90° to the table?
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hi,
The fence is at a 90. I will set the cut at 1/16th and keep it there and just make several passes would that br the way to go? is there anything else that I would need to no?
thanks
Steve
FWIW, Frank Klausz has said that the knives should be set just proud of the outfeed table. How proud? You should mark a stick with two lines 1/4" apart,set one line on the edge of the outfeed table and hand turn the cutterhead. The stick should move that 1/4". I've read and heard that the knives should be level, or move the stick more or less. I've found that when Frank says something about woodworking, saying thanks and doing it is usually the best approach.
I ran that method by John White here t FWW, and he discouraged me from using it. First of all, 1/4" is tooooo far. Generally, the knives probably should be a couple thousandths proud of the outfeed table. That's not going to move a stick 1/4" but considerably less than that. Measuring with a straightedge and feeler gauges works, or with a dial indicator.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
How many passes you need to take depends on how much correction you need in the wood. For edge jointing, I've made as few as one and as many as a half-dozen. "Several passes" could take 1/2" off your wood if you're cutting 1/16" at a time!
The goal with the jointer is, for edge jointing, to get one straight edge that is 90° to the face and, for face jointing, to get a flat surface that your planer can reference off of for your thicknessing. Face jointing especially takes some technique, especially if the board is cupped or twisted.
You haven't asked any questions about safey, yet it's sounding like the jointer is a new tool to you. Be careful! More than one Knots-head has lost skin and meat, and you can lose the end of a finger lightning fast if you don't use it properly.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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