While setting new knives in my old 8″ Delta jointer, I got to the last knife and found that the corners of three of the setscrews were rounded over, making them impossible to grab with the wrench. I’ve tried WD40 and Liquid Wrench to no avail. Does anyone have any ideas for what to do in this situation? Thanks.
Bob
Replies
Bob,
The first thing to try would be to get a small pair of needle nose Vise Grip pliers and use them to grab and back off the screws. You may have to grind down the tips to get into the slot in the head.
If you don't want to go that route, get a Dremel type tool and, using a fiber reinforced cutting disc, you can slice the bolt heads off. Use eye protection if you try this, otherwise you are almost sure to get hurt and also watch that the sparks from the cutting don't start a smoldering fire. Be sure to clean up the machine after you do this to keep the grit from the cutting disc from getting into the bearings.
You will probably have to go to Delta for replacement screws since the heads of the screws are unique. I'd replace all of the screws if some of the others are also getting rounded off. Also get a wrench that fits the heads of the screws closely, the factory supplied wrenches often fit poorly. When you install the new screws, put a small amount of grease on their threads, this will allow them to tighten properly without binding and seizing.
A last suggestion: many people, out of fear that a knife will come loose, overtighten the gib screws on jointers and planers. The screws need to be firmly tightened but they don't have to be tightened to anywhere near the point that the screw heads are damaged.
Hope this helps,
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
Thanks, John. Since I wrote the original post, I was able to get the knife out of the cutter head. I put the wrench on one of the stuck screws and tapped gently with a hammer to try to help the liquid wrench penetrate. Luckily, the first screw loosened. Now, with 3 of the 5 screws loose, I was able to pry the knife out of the head from one end. It wasn't easy, but it's out.
Now comes the task of trying to locate new screws and maybe new lock-shim bars, for an ancient Rockwell planer. I can't even find a model number, just a plate that reads," Delta Power Tool Division, Rockwell Manufacturing Company". Any leads? I'll try Delta and see what happens.
I also learned the hard way that Freud 1/8" knives are thicker than the original Rockwell knives by .020", enough to make them impossible to get into the slot with the screws fully lowered. I'm not having a good day.
Thanks again.
Bob
I wish you better luck with Delta customer service than I had.
The fence on my 6" jointer was not flat when I purchased it. I called and was shipped another, also not flat, called and was shipped another - not flat, but the top and bottom were in the same plane so I thought I could live with it.
This worked fine for a year because I was only jointing boards that were 6'' tall or more and the board contacted the fence at both top and bottom. Then I took on a job that required 16 2.75" square legs. Uh Oh.
I called Delta, explained everything and they agreed to send me a fourth fence. 30 days later, no fence. Another call - several apologies, and a promise to 'overnight' the replacement. 1 week later, still no fence. Another call, more apologies and another promise.
3 days later I had 3 new fences! Anybody need a fence for a 6" Delta!Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
The forum at http://www.owwm.com will have lots of people who can tell you what you need.Pete
Thanks, Pete: I did find the "Old Woodworking Machines" site through a Google search and recommend it highly to anyone who is looking for information on old equipment.
I was able to learn that my jointer was made between 1945 and 1960 and is a 37-300 model, with a 3-knife head. The earlier ones had 4 knives. There is also a brief history that explains the Delta, Rockwell, Crescent lineage, something that has always been a mustery to me.
To Hammer1: Sorry for the confusion. I guess my brain cramped for a second when I typed "setscrews". Obviously, the locking screws are hex-head. Good tips, but with the way my day was going yesterday, the last thing I was going to do was light a torch in the shop!
After prying out the last knife, I learned that the reason the screws were so hard to remove was that they had been over-tightened by the previous owner, and cross-threaded somewhat. I called a machinist friend who is going to re-tap the threads inside the locking bar. The heads of the screws are not really that bad, and I'm hoping that they will be servicable once they can thread freely.
Having found out that one new bar costs $60 and each screw is $2.30, I'll try to make the existing parts work.
Also, I also had zero help from Delta. The web-site they send you to simply says that parts are unavailable and the factory service center told me the wrong screw, which probably works for the current version of their jointer (0.79), but sure seems to be a different screw.
That's really sad to hear about the clueless "service" from Delta. Several years ago, I had a super-nice miter gauge from the 1950's or '60's -- cast iron head, clamps, the whole shebang. Something was wrong with it, can't remember, but I called Delta and the guy I got knew everything about that miter gauge, what hardware usually got damaged by inexperienced users, and how to fix it. Sent me the part (old, old inventory) and it was a happy ending. Sounded like he'd worked there most of his life, LOL!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I agree that Deltas website is of little help, call them instead. There is a toll free number. A tech will help you out for future use and I'm quite sure you can get replacement parts you need.
mike
Since your buddy, the machinist, is going to re-tap the threads, give him a couple bolts so that he can get some good high grade ones. He can thin and dome the heads to match the samples and make a few spares too. But check his price first if he's charging, because the replacements might be cheaper.
"and each screw is $2.30 so I'll make do.
Don't take chances with those-if you can't get original screws any machinist will modify some to suit-and further I would get high tensile ones as the heads will maintain their shape better. The female threads should also be in good order-if their is any distortion I would be nervous about re-tapping, as full strength is vital there.
Often seized or overtight threaded parts are loosened by the application of HEAT, which is what I usually try first.Philip Marcou
OK, here's the latest...Took the parts to the machinist- I'll call him Bob, cause that's his name. I learned a few things.
First, the female threads in the bar weren't really cross-threaded, but there were a few burrs on the edges that made turning the screws tough. The tap took them off and sailed right through and Bob felt that the threads were still sound.
Second, the wrench I was using was one of those cheap, thin stamped wrenches that comes with a portable planer. It was the only one I had that was thin enough to get in there, and I found that it had opened up somewhat. This was a big part of the reason why it would slip around the hex heads. I found out about "ignition wrenches", which are thin and give me a much better grip on the head. I got a set on my way home. Sears calls them "Midget Combination Wrenches". So, it looks like I'm all set. I still may replace some screws, if I have any doubts at all.
Thank you all for the good advice.
Maybe you already know this, Bob but the gib bolts work in reverse. As you loosen the bolt, turning left, it tightens the gib by pressure against the head. Make sure you are going the right way with your wrench, in this case, the opposite way, righty loosey. There isn't much room in the slot and thick wrenches like Craftsman may not fit. It usually doesn't take too much to get the bolts started. Sometimes an offset head ignition wrench will get in where others won't. Put a rag or leather over the blade so you don't hit your fingers and make sure the machine is unplugged. If you still can't get a bite, try using a nail set on a corner of the bolt head and tapping with a hammer. Remember, you are going in the tightening direction to loosen. If you can't get it started, you can drill a hole in the head to serve as a better purchase for the nail set/drift or insert a rod for a lever. Don't use the nail set, it will snap off, something like the stalk of a chuck key, bolt, maybe a nail. If they are still stubborn, heat them up with a propane torch.
You used the term "set screws". Some jointers have screws that go straight in to the cutter head. These are jack screws. They assist when setting the blades by moving the blades up and down. These won't move in the loosening direction when the gib bolts are tight.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I would add one small change to the use of a small dab of grease to the Gib bolts, I use a small dab of Never Seize. I use it on just about everything and have "never" had a removal problem or an unwanted loosening. A must here in the Snow Belt and salty roads for car lug nuts.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
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