I am a relative newbie to woodworking and am having some difficulities with my 8″ Grizzley jointer. I just had the blades re-sharpened and now have them re-installed using the factory setup blocks. I reset the outfeed table to be level with the blades and reset the infeed table as well. Everything seems to be working fine with the cuts being right on square and straight. The problem lies in the fact on my test board after 6 to 8 passes was tapered. What I don’t know is what caused more material to be removed from one end than the other. I also checked that the infeed and outfeed tables are level and even with each other, which they seem to be. Does anyone out there have any suggestions?
Bruce Ebling
Replies
Hi Bruce,
Jointers are tricky animals to be sure. If you are confident with the tuning that you have done, then I would suggest that you concetrate on the placement of downward pressure as you pass the board from infeed table to outfeed table.
If you are not familiar with the ' pushing down on board while using a jointer' dogma then I'd be happy to write it out. However, it's lengthy and I don't want to write all that unless you think that may be the problem.
Email me back if you'd like the list of do's and don'ts...otherwise I'm not sure what's going on. My dad has a Grizzly 6" that he bought about 10 years ago and he's been happy with it.
Chad
Chad: Since I also had the same problem with the Jet jointer I previously had, it more than likely is in my technique. I would really appreciate your list of do's and dont's. If you would like you could email me @ [email protected]
Thanks so much, you have no idea of how much you have helped me!
Bruce Ebling
Hi Bruce,
Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you.
To edge joint a board, begin with pressure towards the back of the infeed table. This will ensure that you are actually using the infeed table's "levelness" and not otherwise taking a nose dive into the cutter knives.
Keep downward pressure centered on the infeed table for the first half of the board.
As you reach mid-board, begin to deliver even pressure between infeed and outfeed tables.
Near the end of the board put the downward pressure on the outfeed table. If you keep the pressure on the infeed table at the end of the pass, then you will most likely either snipe or taper your wood.
This goes for face jointing as well. Special caution should be taken however to not ever put downward pressure on the board directly over the cutter knives. A co-worker of mine actually lost part of a finger once...for real.
I've taught woodworking in the past and the jointer seems to give many people trouble. I will freely admit that I am no master with it. However, I have learned a few tricks to improve my work with this fickle beast, and I'm happy to pass them on when I can.
My last thought for you is to choose the edge of the board that you are jointing and the face that runs along the fence with care. The board should be bowed in a rainbow " ^" rather than a smile "U" as you edge joint it. Similar thoughts should be used against the fence and when face jointing. Grain direction is an important consideration as well...but you'll be there all day if the board is rocking on you.
One option is to use the "poor man's" jointer first. This being the trick of fastening your bowed board to a straight piece of plywood and then cutting the bow off on the table saw. If you can't picture this, think of using a taper jig. If you can't picture that, then I'll attach a photo to my next post. You can also buy 'rich-guy' jigs to do the same thing. They probably save you a little more wood too because my way requires you to run a couple of screws through your good stock.
We actually edge glued stock for raised panels right off the table saw at one cabinet shop I worked at. And to be honest I never saw a problem with it. They turned out just fine.
Alright, I tend to be a wordy SOWW (Son of a WoodWorker) so I'll stop now. Hope something in this rambling was of use.
ChadWhen you need help, call in the InfantTree.
You could have the outfeed table a few thousandths too high or your knives could be a few thousandths low of the outfeed table height. This condition will result in a tapered cut. This could be caused by your setting gauges not being calibrated to the original knife setting at the factory. Try dropping the outfeed table until you get snipe and slowly raise it up until the snipe disappears.
Edited 2/29/2004 6:49:32 PM ET by rick3ddd
Edited 2/29/2004 7:00:25 PM ET by rick3ddd
For what it's worth, I've never adjusted the outfeed table since the initial setup. I've always adjusted the blade height to the outfeed table height, not the other way around. Just lay a straight edge on the outfeed table and then raise the blades until they just barely graze the straight edge, at both ends of the blade. Good luck, Dan
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