Jointing 8″ stock with a 6″ jointer
Hi All,
I am wondering if it makes sense to start jointing 8″ stock with a 6″ jointer to speed up the process and get a good reference surface and then finish up the remaining width with handplanes.
Eric
PS: As you may have guessed I just have a 6″ jointer…
Replies
Eric,
It would be possible to take the first pass only on a jointer that has a rabbeting edge on the outfeed table, but you would have to remove the guard assembly which would make the operation very high risk.
A better approach would be to rough plane one side of a wide board flat by hand and then run the board through a planer to get the unplaned surface flat on the first pass and then flip the board over and plane off the hand planed face.
John W.
John,
I overlooked the safety issue. You are completely right. Thanks.
Eric
If you use pads for pushing(handled) where does the high risk come in . Just a guard removal does not seem to me to constitute this. If you want to bring in possible kick back or other elements I might get it ,but to me with proper precautions it doesn't seem "high" risk to me.
The worst jointer accident I ever heard of with out a guard was a guy who worked for a friend of mine in Vimercate 25 years ago. Power went out and the idiot sat down on the machine to wait... power came back on.... he lost half a buttock. On new machines that can't happen (safety switches)
Philip
Holy Cow - talk about a surprise!!! Wish I could have seen the look on his face when the lights came back on!!
Christ, talk about a Darwin Award candidate!
Monte
>> Power went out and the idiot sat down on the machine to wait... power came back on.... he lost half a buttock.<<
I'm sorry,...I don't usually laugh at other people's misfortunes,...but that story,....
I guess he's got a lot of half-assed opinions about jointers these days,....
Cheers, Philip,.... Ed
Edited 10/26/2003 7:33:12 PM ET by Ed from Mississippi
>> Power went out and the idiot sat down on the machine to wait... power came back on.... he lost
half a buttock.<<
>I'm sorry,...I don't usually laugh at other people's >misfortunes,...but that story,....
>I guess he's got a lot of half-assed opinions about jointers these >days,....
>Cheers, Philip,.... Ed
His name wouldn't be Crunk, would it?
(Just couldn't resist!)
Not a good idea!
you are better off planing two 4 inch piece then glue them up.
You can then finish the panel to size using a hand plane if you dont have a thicknesser.
Mike
I was looking for ways to avoid ripping the stock but I guess I was wrong.
Eric
How about jointing 10" stock on an 8" jointer or 14" stock on a 12" jointer? The grab-#### will never stop unless you learn how to use a hand plane.
I am still learning how to use handplanes. Actually I am in the process of hand-planing the top on my first workbench. I uses Douglas Fir 4x4 from HD for cost reasons. When I glued the top I did not realized that the planing direction of adjacent boards is opposite so it is giving me a hard time.
The idea of using the jointer in the first place is to speed up the process. I cannot spend that much time in my workshop and my wife is more interested in the results than in my skill building...
Eric
Hang in there, don't give up, it's worth it. Be a woodworker and not a machine operator.
Now come on be fair.........
Mr. Boss Crunk?
If the cave man looked at you for using steel for planing wood, do you think he would call you a machinist and himself a purist, for using a couple of bits of flint to hack his log????????
I myself can't understand why people dye wood, and ruin the natural effects of nature...but there is a place for everything...and believe me although people use machinery they still use the hand tools as well.......
Mike
The thought of ripping scarce, wide stock just so that it can be jointed is abhorrent.
Coooo weeeeee.......
and I had to look that up in a dictionary!!!!
Bet you watch Norm though !!!!
Mikeeeeeeee
Watch him enough to know that he doesn't butcher wide boards - he flattens them on a big-asse*d drum sander which is the least objectionable way to do it with a machine I suppose.
Why don't you quit fighting it and just flatten wide boards by hand? You can still plane to thickness with a machine, friend.
I do!!!!
You just got me mixed up with the guy who posted the original message...he was the one needing advise....
I also grow organic veg, keep bees and make honey, make coal into soap, pull my water from a spring, eat roast beef and Yorkshire puddings.......
But joking apart I just finished a couple of bedside cabinets. All hand planed..even the raised panels.
I just purchased some rough sawn English Oak to make a few clocks for Christmas presents, but that will go through the jointer to get one side flat ( the stock is fairly well twisted) Then I will look at the section to see where I can lay the different thicknesses out to my cutting list, mark out with chalk, cut and then get back to the planing..........
Take care
Mike
Right on, bro.
After this lot my wife says I should,
' take up..hand crafted pottery and join the womens institute'
I think she has a point...
far too much hastle woodworking!!!!
Mike
eric,
I hesitated to put my 2 cents in until I read what others had to say. Now, I'll say that I've done exactly what you have asked about with good success. Planing the 2" to match the rest of the board was sure faster than planing the whole thing. I did though, only take enough off to make the surface ready for for the planer, which was 12". Then I finished both sides there.
I've also cut larger boards into manageable sizes and glued them back together and found that to be much easier, safer, and perfectly acceptable.
Pick your poison and be safe doing it.
Richard
The old rip, joint, and reglue cha-cha-cha, huh? And machine tool woodworking is supposed to be faster than hand tool woodworking?
Edited 10/25/2003 12:06:07 PM ET by BossCrunk
Thanks for sharing your experience Richard.
Eric
I've wondered about this, too, as I'm in the process of deciding which jointer to buy. In my search for information about jointers, I found on the Woodcraft web site a reprint of the article "Get Straight With Crooked Wood" by Steve Shanesy (http://www.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/assets/html/Jointer.asp). In part 4 he describes the technique of jointing stock that is wider than the jointer blades. There are also some pictures at the bottom of the page. It seems like a reasonable technique if performed with care.
Cheers,
Lowell
Thanks for the info Lowell,
Eric
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