Replies

1. 
   Joe_Fusco | Aug 04, 2002 05:12am | #1

   Frank,

   Most say you should start with the "cup" facing the bed of the jointer. That's the way I first began. But now I can flatten the board anyway I want, cup up, cup down. I aim for the "best" side to flatten.

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   Edited 8/3/2002 10:13:19 PM ET by J Fusco

2. 
   ScottDoten | Aug 04, 2002 06:02am | #2

   Frank,

   I prefer to put the concave side down for after a few passes over a jointer the board is either flat or there are  two flat edges on the same plane which can be put down on a thickness planer.  Now the planer is doing all the work, just do not forget to plane the other side so both surfaces are flat  & //.  

   Now if you want to minimize the number off passes over a jointer and through a planer first rip the board in half.  Now the depth of the concave board is divided in half which means less material will be removed to flatten and make the surfaces //.  The last step is to glue the two boards back together along the same edge in which they were ripped.

   MSD

3. 
   forestgirl | Aug 04, 2002 08:15am | #3

   I've been reading up on jointer technique, hoping not to take any fingers off with my new Jet 6", LOL.  The experts who put it in writing all say to joint with the concave face down first.  Better "base of operation" so-to-speak.  I've tried it both ways on test pieces, and the concave side down feels a lot safer to me.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

4. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Aug 04, 2002 11:36am | #4

   Hi Frank,

   My training was always concave side down on either the jointer or the table saw (or any tool with a flat bed), as the two lines of contact from concave down are more stable than the one line of contact with convex down.  It's possible to introduce twist into the board through using the board convex side down if the board rolls on the cupped face during jointing.

   Hope this helps,

   Eddie

   
   

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   Edited 8/4/2002 4:39:55 AM ET by eddie

   
   

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   Edited 8/4/2002 5:24:58 AM ET by eddie

1. 
   Biscardi | Aug 04, 2002 11:04pm | #5

   Friends,

   Thanks for your replies. Eddie, I see what you are saying. I suppose one could even introduce a wind of sorts into the board depending on the shape of the concave side.

   Frank

1. 
   AlanTurner | Aug 05, 2002 01:45pm | #6

   In my  experiece, with all the pressure on the outfeed table as soon as that is possible, the introduction o fwarp is not a problem.  On a big board, this does require some effort, however.  I just milled the stock for 5 drawers yesterday, and I am a bit sore today.  Took 5/4 maple down to two 7/16" pieces, and make about 50 gal. of chips, shavings form the jointer, planer, and resaw.

1. 
   patternmaker | Aug 06, 2002 06:46am | #9

   I assume that you resawed that 5/4 stock before taking it down to 7/16.

   Makes twice as many drawer sides and half as many chips.

   ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬Pat¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

1. 
   AlanTurner | Aug 06, 2002 03:46pm | #10

   You bet.

2. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Aug 05, 2002 03:45pm | #7

   Hi Frank,

   Yes, I suppose you may get twist/wind either way. It is technically possible.

   Once you have a couple of passes over the jointer, with the pressure on the outfeed side, then you have a flat surface to work off. Out of flat happens very occasionally/infrequently, due to operator error. Using a table saw convex side down is a different story, however. Cuts are all over the place and very difficult to control with convex side down.

   Cheers,

   Eddie

   Edited 8/5/2002 8:47:57 AM ET by eddie

   Edited 8/5/2002 8:49:42 AM ET by eddie

5. 
   Elcoholic | Aug 05, 2002 10:59pm | #8

   Convex side down for sure.  Another approach for boards that are too long or too wide or too heavy to run on the jointer (6" in my case) is to do it on the planer (12" in my case).  I make a sled (jig-fixture?) out of mdf and shim and anchor the board to get a level surface with loosing as little thickness as possible.  I run it through the planer a few light passes until I get a flat surface.  Then take it off the sled jig/fixture flip it over and plane it until flat.  Then I'll take passes off both sides until I get the thickness I need.  Works great with twisted 10' long 8/4 stock and a big ol' heavy planer.  I don't know how it would work on a portable, but with good stock support it might be OK.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   BG | Sep 17, 2002 03:04pm | #11

   John,

   I'm trying to flatten with my portable planer some 8/4 maple.  The planer is supported by wings so snipe is not too much of an issue.  Can you give me some idea of the jig/fixture you use to flatten on the planer?  thanks

1. 
   Elcoholic | Sep 18, 2002 11:42pm | #12

   I use a piece of 3/4 MDF with a cleat at each end as a sled.  The twisted work piece is shimmed level with wedges pinned to the MDF sled with a brad gun every foot or so and screwed through the cleats into the endgrain.  Take light passes with the planer until the top side is flat.  Then take the board off the sled and plane the other side just until it's flat.  From there I take passes off each side until I get down to my final thickness.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne