When jointing stock, both the face and edge, that is bowed, should the material be feed with the concave shape up or down? In other words, do you feed it so it appears like a U or an upside-down U from the side profile? It seems to be a precarious situation with slightly bowed boards because you can’t feed it flush with the infeed table. Should there be a maximum board length used for jointing for both safety and to help reduce the amount of material that will need to be removed over a long, bowed board? Maybe I have the wrong approach…
Also, my 6″ jointer clogs at the cutter head when face jointing. Is there a
way around this? I have my DC (1 hp) hooked up to it but it doesn’t appear to provide enough suction, I’m guessing, and there’s a “filter” where the hose meets
the impeller that would block the clumps of shavings anyway. Note: the DC
outlet on the jointer is at the bottom of the chute so there’s a small
section of the outlet that’s covered by the jointer stand by about 1/2″, which
cuts down on the opening.
Thanks, Brett
Replies
I was always taught that you should run it through on the concave side so that it clips the high ends first working them down until the middle is being shaved. The tendency with doing the convex side first is to rock the board so that all that is happening is thining the board without flattening it. As to the lack of suctioning, you might unplug it and see if there is any wood trapped behind the cutter head that has gradually built up over time.
I do concave side down. If the board is much longer than the overall length of the jointer, you may have to take cuts at both ends in order to get it flat enough where the tail end won't hang up on the infeed table and cause the board to ride up. If the board is really bowed, then there's not much you can do except cut it into shorter lengths. Do the math: a 3/4" board with 1/2" of bow is only going to be 1/4" thick at the ends by the time you flatten the concave side.
Also, my 6" jointer clogs at the cutter head when face jointing.
Are you taking a heavy cut? If so, don't. ;)
-Steve
1) Upsidedown U. Shorter boards require less planing to get flat. Don't joint a board longer than absolutely necessary.
2) you don't want it: "flush with the infeed table" You want it flat on the outfeed table. If you keep it flush with the infeed table you will get all kinds of nasty snipe and you will never get it flat.
3) If you are jointing a wood with a lot of pitch it might be gumming up the works and causing or helping to cause the clog.
4) Be sure you go through all of the steps to set up the tool properly.
I am relatively new to jointing myself, but I've learned and have been able to get some very nice results, so keep on working at it. You will get there.
Scotty
U down... get that flat then put it through the thickness planer or widebelt to get the top of the arch... do as short a board as you can if they are messed up so that you can get the job done with as little lost material as you can.
Drew
I have a story on he basics of using a jointer at the link below (photos and video) that might be of help.
As for the clogging, if the DC is underpowered for the job, not a lot is going to help much. I always take very light cuts even though I have an overpowered DC. It seems to help everything from cut quality to knife life and keeping the chips clear.
http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/usejntr.html
Tom Hintz
Because there is always more to learn!
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