Replies

1. 
   AlanWS | Oct 02, 2008 11:16pm | #1

   http://woodworkerszone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Jointing_wide_boards

2. 
   oldusty | Oct 03, 2008 05:10pm | #2

   Terrenord ,

                 Congrats on your first jointer , I looked at the article in the second post and while I'm not sure how experienced you are I would not recommend this method to you . On the glue ups that are too wide to face joint , a thickness planer or sander would do a much better and safer job .

            To be quite honest with you sometimes each board only wants to run one way without chipping , when I glue boards up to then run through the planer I take a light pass before glue up to determine the direction , and I place the boards so the direction is the same . This ensures a chipout free surface or panel .

             regards       dusty

3. 
   gb93433 | Oct 03, 2008 08:53pm | #3

   For many years before I bought a larger jointer I would joint one surface in one pass as wide as the jointer would allow. Then I took a piece of MDF and placed underneath the jointed area and ran it through my planer. This method planed the top surface flat and parallel to the jointed surface that was on top of the MDF. Then I turned the board over and finished planing the side which was originally jointed.

4. 
   WillowRay | Oct 04, 2008 12:23am | #4

   Congrates on your new toy! 

   If I understand your question correctly  I think I might have an answer...

   Basically you can take the tool to the wood (a typical handsaw for example where the wood is stationary) or you can take the wood to the tool (a table saw for example where the tool is stationary).

   For boards wider then 6" - or boards too long or heavy to safely hold - I take the tool to the wood.  I use a router mounted on a sled with a dish-bit in it.  This is a great - and typical - way to plane large slabs.

   Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the jig handy to show you but maybe someone else out there can share theirs.

   Hope that was of some help...

   Willow Ray

5. 
   forestgirl | Oct 04, 2008 08:34am | #5

   The two powered methods that I feel are safe and effective are (a) use a router on a sled, as mentioned above and (b) use a sled to carry shimmed and level stock through a wider planer.

   For a very good demonstration of using a router on a sled, click here.  Demo was done by Peter Loh, a very accomplished Northwest woodworker.

   I don't have a bookmark for a planer sled, but it's very simple to build and use. You make a sled out of, say, 1/2" MDF, place your stock on top of it, with shims underneath to make the stock level across the top.  A cleat on the end of the MDF keeps the stock from moving off the sled.

   I flattened 12" wide poplar last year using a planer sled.  I used the small plastic wedges sold at Ace hardware for levelling furniture, and turner's tape (very strong 2-sided tape to hold them in place.  Once the top side is flat, you can take the board off the sled, flip it over and plane the other side.

   There are some very fancy designs "out there" (in various magazines) for planer sleds, and if you were faced with a large number of boards, it might be worthwhile adopting a sophisticated design.  Otherwise, the simple version would work fine.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
6. 
   forestgirl | Oct 04, 2008 08:40am | #6

   I Googled "planer sled" flatten boards and got plenty of hits.  Try this one for starters.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
7. 
   BruceS | Oct 04, 2008 05:44pm | #7

   OK,  You knew this one was coming ;-)   One reason I bought a #7 jointer plane.  Sometimes the old ways work best for us power tool challenged folk who don't have all the luxuries of large Iron.  And burning a few calories is good for you, as well as rewarding.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 04, 2008 06:16pm | #8

   OK,  You knew this one was coming ;-)   One reason I bought a #7 jointer plane. 

   Good one!

   I can use hand tools, and pretty good at it, but I use POWER whenever I can. Sometimes that POWER is ME behind my old, long, wooden jointer.

   The sled and router is a good idea. I have one but sometimes the results take as much work to get it as hauling out the old jointer plane! Now if only I could get that jointer plane to cut my Jatoba and Purpleheart slabs!

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 04, 2008 06:17pm | #9

   That's why I wrote "powered methods" in my post, I knew somebody would come along with the ol' #7.  I've got one too, but haven't needed it (yet).  Take a bit of oomph to hoist it around.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   BruceS | Oct 05, 2008 01:07am | #10

   I too use the sled method, but often find it  faster to use the old #7 to get'er reasonably flat then off to the planer.  But back and Arthur in the elbows often mandate the sled for larger jobs :-(

    Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   Tinkerer3 | Oct 05, 2008 05:07am | #11

   There is also a method of using the thickness planer with the workpiece wedged up on a straight piece of material.  Does anyone use this method.  I haven't but thought I might if the need arises.

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 05, 2008 05:45am | #12

   That sounds like the aforementioned sled technique. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

3. 
   tkluck | Oct 05, 2008 07:42am | #13

   There is one thing that works much better than a #7, a #8!
   You buy a #7 because your #8 is too big to carry to a job site on the streetcar, not because it's easier to use.
   I added a Hock iron to mine and find myself using it more than I ever thought I would (and using my planer and jointer less).
   I'll admit that I rarely make anything larger than a pen out of exotic (expensive) or highly figured (expensive) wood. That, and I don't make my living wood working ("Can you make me a computer desk? They're too expensive at Office Max")
   Then again, if an arthritic retired desk jockey with a heart condition, poor grip strength (ulnar nerve, two numb fingers), one eye, and a dubious prostate finds that the big plane is actually easier, and darn near as quick, perhaps there is something to it. Especially when you consider how much less scraping, soothing, chewing, or sanding is left to do.
   I know it is a power tool topic, but my point is that a BIG plane, properly set up (yada, yada) is a viable, not just a novel, cheap, reactionary, or 'green' alternative.
   Still a few out there on eBay, and they don't weigh any more than a big router. Add a modern iron (and one of those nifty Veritas magnetic fences!) and you have very effective tool.

1. 
   BruceS | Oct 05, 2008 04:00pm | #14

   Why #7?  I picked it up for a song on Craigs list.  Three pens I made and a couple of bucks, (not cheap, just frugal).   Just picked up a #3 for $23 and another OHIO TOOL plough iron for the old woody plough for $1.  There were a #1 and #2 there also but passed on them.  Could almost get a Powermatic 15" planer and 12" jointer for the price they wanted for them.  Not that ADDICTED to planes yet, at least on my budget.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S.