Replies

1. 
   john_c2 | Feb 22, 2024 03:13pm | #1

   The edge you are trying to make straight and square -- is it from rough lumber? Table saw? Bandsaw? Hand saw? Axe?

1. 
   starideda | Feb 23, 2024 01:56am | #4

   Rough lumber.

2. 
   jharveyb | Feb 22, 2024 04:06pm | #2

   You are correct that a longer plane would be better.
   The edge is concave because the plane iron projects thru the bottom of the body of the plane. The more it projects, the deeper the arc it will make. So if you can get your plane iron really sharp, and take a really fine cut, that will produce the best cut you can make with a short plane. It is also important to determine that the sole of the plane is flat, as if it is at all convex, it will plane more concave than the minimum for a given length and iron setting.
   I do this (even with a longer plane) a bit differently than in the video. I start with shorter cuts in the middle, gradually lengthening the cuts, so that I only have to start and stop a bit short of the ends the last few times.

3. 
   joeyboy | Feb 22, 2024 04:55pm | #3

   Here is a link to a good article from Lee Valley about methods for jointing an edge if you do not have a jointer. Hope it helps. https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/discover/woodworking/2021/march/jointing-without-a-jointer#:~:text=Feed%20the%20router%20against%20the,bearing%20rides%20against%20the%20straightedge.&text=Jointing%20on%20a%20router%20table,on%20its%20face%20side%20horizontally.

4. 
   jovogtmd | Feb 24, 2024 06:36am | #5

   Look on eBay. I bought a Stanley #7 type 15 circa 1931 for $127. It was in remarkable shape. I did flatten the sole using 4 inch wide, 150 grit self-adhesive sandpaper placed on the top of my tablesaw table Works great.

   I added a Hock blade to it. Found blade at lee valley.

5. 
   lat_axe | Feb 24, 2024 07:10am | #6

   A jointer hand plane is the best solution to making a board edge straight and square if you haven't got a jointer machine. Or even if you have (depending on the jointer machine). It can be done with routers against straight edges and so forth but have you got a sufficiently long and resilient enough straight edge (i.e. won't bend even slightly when the router bit guide is pressed against it)?

   Metal jointer planes can be expensive; and they do have to have a flat sole, which can take some time if you have a metal plane that isn't already flat. So, as you mention, why not a wooden jointer plane?

   You seem wary of the adjustment method needed for traditional wooden planes - knocking the plane body or the blade or the wedge with a small hammer. That can be hit or miss ('scuse pun) especially if the blade or wedge or blade-bed are not perfectly formed.

   So why not make yourself a wooden jointer that incorporates a modern metal blade but also a metal adjuster to control it? I made one from scrap bits of hardwood with a Veritas plane blade and a Veritas fine adjuster of the Norris kind, for around £70. It also has those wee grub screws through the plane sides to further position the blade very accurately indeed.

   It's much easier than you might think to make such a plane. Once you have made it, it'll fit your hands and work extremely well. If & when you need to flatten the sole, it takes just a couple of minutes using 100 grit sandpaper stuck to a sheet of float glass.

   The attached pic shows the jointer I made. These are the parts from Veritas that I used:

   https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/bench/74621-veritas-wooden-bench-plane-hardware

   I actually used their separate fine adjuster set into the plane body itself, rather than the adjuster shown in the kit, which sits in a metal recess.

   Lataxe

   NB The pic won't attach in the webpage at the moment. I'll post the pic later.

6. 
   starideda | Feb 28, 2024 01:02am | #7

   I bought an old Stanley No. 7 can't wait to it arrive.