Replies

1. 
   john_c2 | Mar 19, 2022 05:07pm | #1

   I suppose it could be vibration, but it could just be a thicker blade. Did you measure them both?

   If the Freud works, why not just stick with it?

1. 
   jpe52 | Mar 19, 2022 05:23pm | #2

   Well, I wanted a flat top blade. I measured
   the carbide teeth on the Ridge at 0.125, and
   the plate at about 0.094, both in agreement
   with specs. The Freud is ATB ground.

2. 
   lat_axe | Mar 19, 2022 05:53pm | #3

   The likelihood is that the Ridge Carbide blade is not "flat" - that is, the blade doesn't rotate within the width of it's teeth, either because the plate they're mounted on has a slight wobble or, alternatively, the teeth may not all be brazed on to the saw plate within the same plane.

   The teeny wobble or slightly-askew teeth will make the kerf that little bit wider than the individual tooth-width.

   Lataxe

3. 
   bilyo | Mar 19, 2022 06:19pm | #4

   I'm not real familiar with box joint blades, but my understanding was that they came in pairs to cut a 1/4" box joint. I was surprised to find that you only had one blade. If the extra .02" makes the blade unusable to you, I guess you have no alternative but to ask for your money back.
   If your object it to cut box joints, I suggest that you get those that come in a pair. That will give you some adjustability and flexibility.

4. 
   stevieray | Mar 20, 2022 08:42am | #5

   I've used a dado blade for box joints. It does take two blades for 1/4 wide, but I get beautiful cuts and right on spec.
   But does is really matter for you? If you make your own box joint jig according to the standard design, it can be compatible with your fancy new blade. You have to mill the register key to the same width as the kerf on that blade
   , and then you are good to go.

1. 
   jpe52 | Mar 20, 2022 11:04am | #6

   Hi StevieRay,

   Thanks. Yes, I agree, and myself use a dado set for 1/4 wide grooves.

   The issue I have with the new blade is that the sawn kerf does not match
   the tooth width; it's not really even very close. I'm pretty sure that the
   reason is vibration. I've very carefully measured the run out of each tooth
   as I hand rotate the blade; there's no variation beyond 0.003", which is
   about as far as I can trust the measurement. When cutting, the groove comes out 0.017-0.018 wide, presumably about half of which is on either
   side.

   Even ignoring the groove issue, the problem shows up even when simply
   ripping a board using the fence. If the fence is set relative to the teeth
   (with the blade stationary...), the actual cut width of the piece will come
   out narrower by roughly 0.008-0.010 owing to the blade vibration.

   I fully realize that this is a pretty small effect. It's nonetheless annoying, given the cost of the blade and that at least some other blades don't suffer from it.

5. 
   [email protected] | Mar 28, 2022 11:41am | #7

   I made a jig for my router table and it works just fine,the carbide bit is cheaper ,and,I can use it for many other jobs

6. 
   EdWeber | Mar 28, 2022 12:24pm | #8

   I use a dado set also but never measured to width. I make test cuts and fit by "feel" not .00x or whatever.
   IMO, Always measure the cut, this is what the saw produces, then go from there. Trying to achieve something the saw and/or blade won't do gets you chasing your tail.

7. 
   jharveyb | Mar 28, 2022 03:20pm | #9

   Since his other blade operates correctly, the trouble is with the blade. It is either not flat (tho his checking with it not running indicates that this is not the problem) or, more likely, it was not hammered correctly. The plate of a saw blade has to be hammered (in the old days by hand) to put it under specific tension. That way, when the blade is spinning at normal rpm, and the perimeter expands, the blade stays flat. If not hammered correctly, the perimeter expands, and the blade becomes slightly potato chip shaped, as the perimeter is too large for the core of the plate. Blades can also have the same problem if over-heated, as again the perimeter expands. No fun when a blade gets snaky. I had a blade that was not hammered correctly, which wandered, and it would cut a more narrow kerf in hard sections, and then a wider kerf in softer sections. Not reliable. I would ask for my money back and look for a different brand. It seems like any 1/8" kerf rip blade should work, as they typically have flat top teeth. The box joint cut is a rip cut.

1. 
   jpe52 | Mar 31, 2022 03:09pm | #10

   Thanks JHarveyB,

   I agree with what you say. My measurements with the blade at rest suggests it is then flat. Since it makes an over-wide kerf when spinning, I had guessed the thing was vibrating. As I understand what you are suggesting, it may not be so much vibration as it is distortion induced during spinning. Either way, the result is unsatisfactory. I bought the blade through a third-party on Amazon and so am doubtful I can get a refund.

   I'll add that I bought the blade originally after viewing a 2018 Stumpy Nubs video extolling its virtues, among which was cutting a kerf very close to the 1/8" expected. My plan was to use it for kumiko work. Obviously one can "correct" for the problem the blade has, but it rankles
   nonetheless.