All,
My question is if I do ‘keyed tenons’ on this clothes rack I’m making for my daughter will it/they survive.
About a week ago my daughter asked me to make her something to hang her stuff in her closetless room at college (living off campus)…she is leaving on Sept. 1. What I came up with is a clothes rack that measures about 60″ high and 44″ wide…the feet are 22″( triangle shaped 5″x22″x5/4″) deep with two 1″ stretchers. The uprights are morticied and tenon into the feet and drawbored….also, a 4″ stretcher near the base between the uprights. The 1″ and 4″ stretcher are through tenoned.
Today, she asked if she would be able to break it down for transport. I’m wondering if I recut the shoulders on the stretchers …so that the tenons were protruding through an 1″ would that be enough to use keyed tenons? How close to the end is advisable? The tenons all measure 1/2″ thick….and the wood is cherry…any thoughts? thanks
Edited 8/22/2005 2:08 pm ET by BG
Replies
if you work this with tight tolerances, and make the keys 0 to 1/4" thick, 3/8" at the most,I think you'll have plenty of strength with a 1" protrusion.
Edited 8/22/2005 2:35 pm ET by jackplane
Jackplane,
I'm going to try it on some scrap first. With all the joinery at the bottom of 5' tall piece I want to see how much pressure it can stand with a key tenon that small. Thanks
I have a rack very similar to what you describe, but made of fir and with less robust joinery, and it has held up to pretty hard use over several years. If you use a vertical wedge on the 4" stretcher, it will be even sturdier, and less likely to crack the projecting tenon. 1" of projection is plenty with a vertical wedge, but not much for a horizontal one.
What are you doing at the top? Mine has a 1" dowel through the uprights, keyed in place.
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
AlbionWood,
Orginally I had thought about a vertical wedge(I'm assuming you mean a wedge that runs the full length of the tenon) in the 4" stretcher(3"x1/2"tenon) but the upright is only 2 3/4" wide and while fitting the upright it began to crack...I glued the crack in the upright and decided not to push that option. I grew up using furniture as protection from nuclear fallout..I tend to over build.
The top was a bit of a problem because my lathe can only do 36" length. I bought a 1 1/4"x48" poplar dowel at HD...stained it dark brown and will probably key it in place.
It's nice to know yours is holding up...I think mine can support a keg...
By vertical wedge, I meant something like this:
View Image"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
albionwood,
Very impressive, I didn't think of that. They would require some precision...with maybe 1/8" wide tenons....hmmm.
Actually, these are quite forgiving joints, though somewhat tedious to cut. The hardest part is cutting the sloped end of the mortises for the wedges; I use a BT mortiser and a 1/4" chisel, and put a wedge under the workpiece to get the angle. 1/4" is just right for 3/4" or thicker tenons. I resaw scrap pieces to get the 1/4" thick stock for the wedges, then cut them on a bandsaw with a taper jig. Belt sand them smooth. The tapered edge should be very slightly "crowned" so it contacts the mortise in the middle, not at top or bottom. If your tenons are less than 3/4" thick then you might have to go with 1/8" or 3/16" wedges. You would have to drill and chop out the mortises, unless you have a slot mortiser. But the side-to-side fit of the wedge in the mortise is irrelevant - it can be quite sloppy and still work fine. Same for the M&T - it needs to be a little loose to make it easy to assemble/disassemble anyway. The only things that matter are the top and bottom shoulders and the wedge taper.Let me know if you need more tips. I love these joints, they are incredibly strong."Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
albionwood,
Those are excellent tips, especially the slight crown on the wedge, appreciate it very much.
I don't have a morticier but thought the drill press with the head tilted could be a great help for both the straight and angle cut...and then chisel in-between. The problem I'm having is, given my constraints (ie. 1/2 wide tenon, 1" protrusion thereby necessitating a rather small wedge), would the wedge be strong enough at the bottom to support the lateral forces that this piece will endure. If I had a thicker/longer tenon the wedge could be more substantial...and also better likely to stand up to be removed and replaced repetitively. I'm going to find a project where I can try them...thanks
If you are doing this in hardwood, the wedge should be plenty strong enough. The wedges for the breakdown chairs I make are only about 3/8" wide at the top, tapering almost to a point at the bottom, and yet they are quite strong. Lengthwise grain, quartersawn stock, hard to break.You'll have the same problem if you run the wedge horizontally, but the joint won't be as strong.Make one of these joints from some scrap and see how it works. I think you'll be amazed."Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
What you suggested sounds perfect..
BUT you forgot the stainless steel chain and lock to run through the sleeves to keep the other girls from 'takin' her stuff!
EDIT:: I had three daughters in College.. One a Dr. On a Masters..
And my 'little girl' got a degree in BOYS...
Edited 8/23/2005 12:16 pm ET by WillGeorge
WillGeorge,
She wanted an armoir..in two weeks. I'll be very surprised if this ever actually sees its intended use...god knows nothing gets hung up in her current bedroom....sigh!
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