Last spring when Tom hosted the Knots Fest in Fremont, I picked up some chisels that one of the guys brought and tossed in the “for free” pile. Tonight, I decided to take a look at them and start re-sharpening. One is a King (made in Japan) and the other 5 or 6 are Sandvik (“Swedish steel”).
The King is the one I worked on tonight: 1/4″ hollow-ground. I decided to take it back to “flat grind” or whatever the term is for the opposite of HG. Got the bevelled face pretty close to flat. Flattened the back, went through the grits (sandpaper approach) on the bevel and then put on a little micro-bevel. Darned thing cut pretty good when I tried it out. All this was done free-hand because the chisel was so short and at such a low angle that the honing guide was of no use.
Are these pretty good chisels for knockin’ around? (The Sandviks, since they outnumber the one King) What’s the best approach to reforming a hollow-ground chisel and making it flat???
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Another proud member of the “I Rocked With ToolDoc Club” …. :>)
Replies
I think you just completed the best way. Thin chisels are difficult to hold in your sharpening guide. The guides that clamp from the sides do a better job with the thin chisels like 1/8, 1/4, etc.... than a top clamping guide will. The difficult part about regrinding a bevel by hand is being consistantly flat over that many strokes, without rounding. If you got it, then well done. I always use a guide when regrinding the bevel, because my hands aren't steady enough any more to be consistant.
Jeff
Not sure the re-surfacing was super-consistent, but it wasn't bad. I used the red-felt-tip coloring approach to spotting high places. I'm going to get one of those side-clamping type guides soon.
Got to wondering: with a hollow-ground chisel that you want to make flat, would it be wise to grind back the tip (gently, of course) a little, shortening the area that needs to be re-surfaced????forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
As long as you maintain the bevel grind of the chisel, the area of grind will remain consistant. If you leave the hollow grind, which many do, the microbevel will be that much easier to produce, since you're really only interested in honing about 1/16th" anyway.
Jeff
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled