I am about to start my kitchen renovation by installing all new cabinets. I was thinking assembly the carcases with biscuit joinery but have doubts about the strength of the biscuits as opposed to the screws. Even though the only screws that can be visible are the one at the end cabinets, I’d like to hear any comments about this type of joinery and if it is suitable for such project.
Any comments are extremely welcome!
Thanks , Manny
Replies
I build my carcasses with dados or rabbets in the sides, then assemble them with glue and "blind-nailed" brads. If I must use screws that would be visible, I countersink them and use a plug cutter to make plugs for the holes.
If you spend a little time making the plugs, you can usually get them to closely match the grain of the cabinet material and they're almost invisible when you're done.
If you are set on screws, you might consider pocket holes with a little glue. They are extremely quick to do and if placed correctly will not be seen. That being said I would probably go with the dado/nail method
I would use the biscuits only for alignment. In areas that will not be visible (includes areas that will be covered by mouldings and trim, screws and glue are the way to go. for visible areas, glue and brads are what I would recommend.
Dowels or confirmat screws are common methods in the industry. Biscuits are fine as well. We used to put our kitchen cabinets together with biscuits all the time. Most of these were of melamine with simple butt joints and biscuits. The only glue necessary was on the biscuit. Plenty of strength and once the cabinet is in place it's not going any where, plus if doing Eoro cabinets they tend to reinforce each other by being screwed to the next cabinet. Do a test and see for yourself. You could also look up the test FWW did a few years back on strength of joints and the biscuit was less than a M & T but more than enough for a cabinet fastened to the wall.
Edited 6/9/2005 1:55 pm ET by rick3ddd
Rick wrote:Dowels or confirmat screws are common methods in the industry. Biscuits are fine as well.---
I don't have the AWI standards book but I know that AWI certifies both dowels and confirmat screws and not other screws. A number of high-end cabinet manufacturers like Wood Mode use dowels and glue. Anyone know whether bisquits are certified?I also wonder whether AWI has evaluated the current generation of screws, e.g. the Spax MDF screw. I used these in my last set of cabinets and a) they were dead easy to use because they are self-drilling and countersinking, and b) very strong because the shank at the head is thickened vs. other screws. No glue, just the screws and I covered them with trim - mainly end panels.RogerI'd rather be making cabinets and friends....
Yes, biscuits meet the AWI/AWMAC standards for Economy and Custom grades (custom grade should cover the vast majority of circumstances)....not allowed for Premium grade, but very few jobs covered by AWI/AWMAC standards should be specified as premium.cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, N.S
I use biscuts in nearlry all my cabinets i build. I get glue into the slot and spred glue on the biscuts also. I also spred glue on the joint too then clamp , makes a strong joint. never had any fail yet.
Have a nice day Lee.
Manny,
I in the finishing stage of cabinets for my daugher and son-in-law's kitchen. Cabinets are 3/4" birch veneer plywood and the doors and drawer fronts (the visible parts) are maple ply. I used rabbets and dados for all the box and drawer joints. It took time but I am very satisfied with the result.
ASK
It took time but I am very satisfied with the result.
ALL that matters.. Just do not get mad at them if they want somethin' fixed!
I find it interesting to note that you use plywood veneers in USA.
We NEVER use it for finishing work.Instead we use veneered custom wood with a infinite range of edge banding from .5 ml to 3 ml. as well as solid clashing.
99% biscuit and screws here in NZ.
Will,
They are not allowed to ask. They are not paying customers.
Installation is weekend of June 24 and I think everything will be ready. I'll let you know how it goes.
ASK
Screw um! Either pocket screws or screws through the sides. Check out Danny Proulx's book " Building Kitchen Cabinets". Simple system that accepts euro hardware with the look of face frames. Remember, unless the doors are glass the only thing that is seen is face frames and doors. When building sink base you might want to slope floor 1/8" towards front. If you ever have leak, the water will run out the front and soon be found. Check on woodnet.net for other discussions on cabinet building.
Mark Sommerfeld's system is easy for a rookie, uses a tongue/groove set plus pocket hole screws. Get his video/dvd (infommercial) for $10.00, it's worth it.
I recommend the"face frame first" method. I learned it on the job in Oklahoma. Marc Adams teaches a class and sells a video detailing almost the same methods and materials as I was taught.
The only major difference between Marc's method and what I learned is the way the side mounted drawer guides are hung and adjusted.
"Face Frame First" is the primary method used by custom cabinetmakers in this region. I find it to be the way best suited for a low tech home shop. It is highly adaptable to many kitchen styles.
I just finished my kitchen and wish you best of luck with yours.
I use biscuits for allignment and a few screws where needed. Like most have stated, this hardly ever fails.
Once, I made a sample carcase for a customer using a shallow dadoe and Miller dowels, no glue, no screws. As much as he tried to pull the joints apart, he couldn't.
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