Replies

1. 
   Tomasie | Jan 12, 2007 03:54am | #1

   Hi, I am no expert but have recently had a new bathroom and closets built. For the partitions of these closets and the vanity in bathroom I glued 2 sheets of 3/4 plywood together and edged them with solid cherry. I sanded with 220 and wiped on about 4 thin coats of Waterlox. Between coats I touched it lightly with 220 sandpaper. This gives an oil-looking finish, which develops more sheen with more coats, like 5 or 6.

   Several years ago I made my daughter a solid cherry cabinet, finished with Waterlox, for her bathroom. This room gets heavy use by the whole family, shower, etc. Waterlox stands up to moisture - which I assume is relevant to your installation in kitchen - and it's quite good for the usual stuff that gets put down on top of it.

   I like the looks of Waterlox on cherry - the way it brings out the color and grain. I like cherry best with Waterlox and without stain, just left to deepen in normal light. I enjoy wiping it on, like that sanding between coats is optional if your environment is pretty dust free. I have used it with and without gel stain on cherry, and use it exclusively on everything I make out of cherry. You do want good ventilation, but it dries fairly quickly and I don't find the fumes too bad.

   Good luck!
   Tomasie

2. 
   MBerger | Jan 16, 2007 05:37pm | #2

   Hi Marcio,

   I'm going to attempt to answer some of your questions and then see if Peter Gedrys can jump in with more expert advice since he's the finishing pro.

   Regarding sanding between coats, the answer is yes. A light sanding is necessary and depending on the step of the process you will use a fine-grit sandpaper (320 and up) and steel wool.

   Regarding your shellac application, you should be able to remove drips or pools of shellac by immediately applying a second coat over the affected area. (you can go over the same spot more than once). The alcohol in the second coat should activate the dried shellac and blend it all together. It should like you need to thin your mixture a bit, especially after the first coat.

   I wonder if it's necessary to apply a dye? Are you trying to match boards that vary in color, or are you just looking for something different?

   Regards,
   Matt Berger
   Fine Woodworking

   P.S. To change your screen name, click on the link in the top right corner that reads "change sceen name" (notice the typo) and follow the steps.

1. 
   Marcio YYZ | Jan 16, 2007 11:45pm | #3

   Hi guys,

   Thanks for the answers.

   I am trying to add some colour to the cherry without using a spray finish and without hiding the grain.

   I would like to come as close as possible as the professional finish of the commercial cabinet makers. I know that they use  spray both, oven and unafordable equipment to the amateur like myself. 

   I am just wondering if hand finish with either gel stain, dyes or any other method of staining/colouring the cherry cabinets will come close to the same finish or at least at an acceptable and attracted level.

   Otherwise I will consider having a pro finishing the cabinets, the drawback is that I will have to move all the parts the the finisher shop and pay at least  $6,000.

   Marcio

1. 
   MBerger | Jan 17, 2007 12:30am | #4

   Check out this article on finishing cherry. It might get you close. I'll also remind Peter to take a look at your question to see what he might advise.

   - Matt