*
My wife and I are building red oak kitchen cabinets and are in the process of deciding on the finish. We want to stay light but enhance the natural beauty of the oak. We have tried several finishes bought from our local outlet, like minwax oil poly and water based poly. What suggestion would any of you have about finishes that you have had success with on kitchen cabinets. I do not want to spray.
Thanks,
John
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
*
John,
Well, I kinda hate to repeat myself but...
When Min Wax's Wipe On Poly first hit the market I was very skeptical about it. So, I did some testing and ended up doing my kitchen cabinets using the semi gloss, I was so impressed I've incorporated it into my finishing operations where a "rubbed" on look is needed along with a high degree of durability.
While Min Wax recommends 3 coats, I never go less than 6. They also recommend against the use of tack cloths which is a good recommendation. I don't like their suggestion on using 0000 steel wool between coats, especially on an open grain wood such as Red Oak. I use 400 grit silicon carbide, dry, with a very light touch after the second coat for sanding.
By the way, those kitchen cabinets are about 4 years old now and have held up extremely well and have no qualms in recommending that others use it.
Dano
*Miniwax Wipe-On Poly is a natural for kitchen cabinets. Ludicrously easy to apply, and durable to boot.Also, though you are using oak, it is worth noting that the wipe-on poly exhibits less ambering over time than alternative urethanes, and as such, would be truly ideal for lighter coloured kitchen cabinet woods such as maple or birch.I'll defer to Dano's experience regarding his suggestion of 6 coats. I use 4 coats on all my work, and have been immensely satisfied with the results...
*John,A while back I read one of Dano's earlier suggestions on finishing and used it and applied many coats of Miniwax Wipe-On Poly to a bed I built. It turned out nice. I highly recommend the Wipe-on Poly.Lar
*Guys, just to confirm, you're using the Minwax Rub-on Poly for the carcase interiors as well as the faces and frames? Thanks.Seth
*Used Bartleys gel on mine. Probably not as easy as wiping poly, but maybe even harder to screw up. Seems to dry hard and has been very durable so far, about 2 years. Used just the varnish on my kitchen (cherry), and their stain and varnish on the upstairs cabinets and banister (oak). When done correctly it leaves a nice soft hand rubbed look.
*Seth, from what I understand from reading other forums is that using oil based finish on the interiors is not wise. It takes so long to dry that you may have a smell for years. Most people are recommending using a water based finish on the interiors. Anybody got any experience here please speak up?John
*John, That refers specifically to b pure oil finishes such as tung oil and linseed oil. They do smell rancid for years, but you'll have no such problem with a film forming oil based finish such as the wipe on Polyurethane, or any other varnish for that matter. Slainte, RJ.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled