Replies

1. 
   Adrian_Wilson | Sep 07, 2000 12:19am | #1

   *
   The joint will work fine; it may mean some extra work if you want a 'framing bead' on the inside of the door. This is done automatically with cope and stick cutters (most of them). You can still mould the bead with a half lap, but you will need to deal with the mitres at the inside corners.

1. 
   rob.kelly | Sep 08, 2000 06:55pm | #2

   *Rail and stile give you exposed end grain at the tops and bottoms of the doors. Half lap gives you some end grain on the sides as well. If you paint, no problem. If you stain or finish natural, the end grain will be noticably darker,

1. 
   Ian_Wilkie | Sep 15, 2000 06:16am | #3

   *Greg, If you're planning to use a captured panel, it's going to make for a tricky glue-up with half-laps!? If you are using panels, I'd suggest a bridle joint - almost as easy to make, and it will be a lot easier to assemble. You could also avoid the end-grain showing on the stile edges by not taking it through in that member, though I don't see it would detract too much from a neat 'rustic' style, anyway. You can always jazz-up a simple, square frame-and-panel with an applied moulding - a simple cove moulding can look quite smart - it can be glued in place and looks so close to a regular 'cope and stick' door, only you would know.Cheers, IW

1. 
   Greg_Alexander | Sep 15, 2000 02:33pm | #4

   *Ian, thanks for the reply. Tho I'm not sure exactly what the bridle joint is. I'm picturing a full lap joint. I've just read and heard about how using the different types of router bits to cut the rails and stiles can be a pain to set up. Plus I like the look of the half lap. Once again, thanks... greg.

1. 
   Jed_C. | Sep 15, 2000 03:27pm | #5

   *What Ian calls a bridle joint is also called a slip joint. See the article in FWW #115, pp.62-65.

2. 
   Mongo_ | Sep 27, 2000 09:06am | #6

   *Set up is not difficult as long as you get a matched set...even easier if you have two routers so you cen keep the setup as you work through the project.I'd recommend the cope and stick, and for added strength throw in a floating tenon.Easy to do with router bits.