Replies

1. 
   BG | May 01, 2007 10:46pm | #1

   Cool,

   Last week Tommy on 'Ask This Old House' did a fabulous job showing a newbie how to install the kitchen cabinets. He went into some detail including where to start, determining high points on floor, uneven walls, etc. ...shimming to insure all cabinets were flush, level and square. You might want to look it up for starters. 

1. 
   coolbreeze | May 02, 2007 04:11am | #5

   BG,

   I went to their website and couldn't find where I can access that program. I would love to have a DVD of it. I'll try again when i have time.

    

   Thanks

2. 
   FinishbyDesign | May 02, 2007 12:49am | #2

   Hi coolbreeze,

   Taunton's "Build like a Pro" "Remodeling a Kitchen" handles that quite well. Good for you to help in this way. Good luck!

   Ju

3. 
   byhammerandhand | May 02, 2007 03:52am | #3

   This book by Jere Cary was the first woodworking book I ever bought. I used it for many years in basic casework before ever building a kitchen cabinet.

   Chapters on each of the major components (doors, drawers, face frame, etc.) With procedure, standardized dimensions, options, and what to do when things turn wrong.

1. 
   coolbreeze | May 02, 2007 04:09am | #4

   I'll probably really need that part "what to do when things turn wrong". The home is in the historical district of Biloxi and has the old 2by framework. No telling about square and plumb. I'll know when the sheetrock is hung.

   Thanks for your suggestion. I'll consider the book.

4. 
   ring | May 02, 2007 07:54am | #6

   Coolbreeze,

   You've already got good recommendations for materials, so I'm just going to toss in some words about the advantages of doing faceframes flush on the inside of the cases:

   1. All inner hardware (drawer slides, hinges) goes on without any need for spacers, blocks, etc.

   2. The insides of the cabinets look clean and are easy to clean.

   3. You can scribe the outer edges of any frame to fit any wall situation.

   4. You can easily add a solid wood exterior wall where the end of the run is exposed, without changing how the cabinets are built inside.

   5. You can level the countertop on spacers independently of the cabinets,leaving an airspace between the counter and cabinets.

   good luck,

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

5. 
   TomT226 | May 02, 2007 01:08pm | #7

   Buildiing Traditional Kitchen Cabinets by Tolpin.

   Would help to know if these will be paint grade or stained.

   I have a system of lower cabs that allows more room by eliminating the bottom rail.  If you're interested I can post an explanation and some pics.

    

1. 
   woodpossum | May 02, 2007 04:05pm | #8

   You might also check out "Building Kitchen Cabinets" by Udo Schmidt.  An excelent  book from Taunton press. 

1. 
   coolbreeze | May 02, 2007 06:10pm | #11

   Woodpossum, what a handle!

   Your post was directed to Tom, but I think you meant it for me. Anyway, I will check it out.

   Thanks

2. 
   coolbreeze | May 02, 2007 06:07pm | #10

   While we did not talk about it, I am alomost certain it will be paint grade. The house is in the historical district and she wants to use beadboard ply for her panneled doors because that is what she had before. I do know the original was painted. I can make the beadboard panels. The back of a 18th Penn. Secretary I built was done in beadboard(walnut). For this freeby, I am going to resist that kind of application and I do not think whe would expect it.

   I have made cabinets for my deer camp and I did not use the bottom rail. They were OK cabinets but not what I want to do for the lady. I would be interested in seeing a photo. The house is relatively small and the kitchen is small. Space will be a premium.

   Thanks for the book suggestion.

1. 
   TomT226 | May 02, 2007 07:58pm | #13

   For paint grade, I usually use "D" grade Maple ply.  Face frames are M&T Poplar or soft Maple, depending on the price that day.  I use 1/2" BB for the backs of all, so no mounting rails are needed on the uppers.  Screw directly to the walls.  I rabbet the outer (exposed) cab edge and leave an "ear" so it can be scribed if needed.  Brads and glue for the FF's, screws for the backs. 

   I band the bottom of the base cabs with solid wood before cutting them to final dimensions, assemble the box, then relieve the area where the stiles are attached.  I try to talk customers into having slides in all the base cabs as it makes storage and access much easier. The lack of the bottom rail gives you 2" more room for storage.  Slides are all Accuride 100 lb full extension.  You can get heavier slides for can storage units.

   Doors are usually hardwood banded slab veneer ply, but if F&P (paint) I usually do 3/4" MDF profiled as specified with cope and stick joints.  Unlike solid wood, you can glue the doors as one unit.  All 1/2" overlay with self-closing hinges.  Drawer faces are the same species wood as doors, but solid, if they're not too big.  A painted carcase allows the HO to change color and doors much more simply than stain grade.

   These are not "upscale" cabs, but serviceable tough and infinitly variable in use.  This is my personal kitchen that I use for examples.

     

   
6. 
   Hastings | May 02, 2007 04:11pm | #9

   Cool:

   What a nice thing to do!

   I am very much in the same boat as you! I am presently building a kitchen in my own home. I have relied heavily on the available literature and by reading the messages on this forum.

   I suggest that you build a small practice cabinet. I made all sorts of silly mistakes doing this but it really helped get the process clear in my head. The other pitfall I found was in layout. Fortunately for me, I am at the job site, but if I wasn't I would have been in trouble! You really have to think through how the cabinets will look in their space. One big mistake was not taking into account a beam. I would have had a dogleg between the lower and upper cabinet run. Fortunately I caught it early.

   I suggest you make detailed story sticks of the space and really understand it before building the cabinets. It's the little details that will kill you in the end.

   I am learning so much from this project. Finally, don't rush it. Take the time to think things through.

   Good luck and kudos to you for taking on this task.

   Hastings

1. 
   coolbreeze | May 02, 2007 06:24pm | #12

   Hasitngs,

   Your suggestions are good. I need a set of cabinets in my storeroom and I think I will build there first. That space is square and plumb and only 8' wide. It would be relatively simple but give me some valuable experience.

   You sound like me. I am a plodder and a planner. I am slow but I refuse to do sloppy work.

    Thanks

7. 
   DJK | May 03, 2007 12:15am | #14

   Since nobody suggested it yet, you should first decide and purchase the hardware then design the cabinets. Hinges and slides may dictate some of the design and construction.
   DJK

1. 
   TomT226 | May 03, 2007 02:41am | #15

   Good point.

   Generally, the Accurides I use have 1/2" o/s to the FF, unless they're bottom mounts.  I find the Euro hinges a PITA and never use them unless making frameless cabs.  IMHO, 1/2" overlays are fine for mid-level cabs.  The pulls aren't an issue unless they're the Euro made that have about 1/16" of threads in the handles...