Replies

1. 
   Segil | Sep 23, 2006 12:49am | #1

   cmyk45,
   The edge you are referring too is called a post-formed laminate edge. They are done on a special post-forming machine which heats the laminate with a metal platen, usually 12' long, as it rotates downward, pressing the p-lam onto the substrate and bonding it as it bends it. This is not something you can do in a home shop. I believe these are readily available at home stores in many colors. Before you use this style counter top, consider how you will deal with the corners, and any exposed ends. These details can be an important issue as they are tricky to handle with post-formed material.

2. 
   oldusty | Sep 23, 2006 03:04am | #2

   Hi Berry ,

                   The drip free edge or drip cap as I know it is an added piece of extruded plastic that fits into a shallow slot much like Tee Molding . The slot is on the top side , the cap gets tapped in then the lam gets contact cemented as well as the sub strate. The heating element softens the lam then clamps it down .

            Without the big equipment this is very much out of the question imo for a well equipped cabinet shop let alone a hobby shop . Leave it to the pros on this one .

      You could forego the drip cap and make a wood edge with a 3/4" bullnose on the face as well as the top of the back splash .

       You can make a coved wood corner transition piece , this really looks nice . Cut slots for splines pre finish the wood , bullnose face and top of backsplash . If your gonna use laminate it adds an interesting detail .

        You can also leave the splash off and put stone or tile on the wall as a splash .

                      good luck                 dusty

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/23/2006 3:04 am ET by oldusty

3. 
   rompus62 | Sep 23, 2006 06:58am | #3

   Okay I may get flak for this but here goes. I have been building and designing kitchens for 25 years.As a result I have developed a disdain for laminate counter tops. They will never achieve the look of the stone countertops that are now available. I used marble in my kitchen and love it,natural stone adds a classic or modern look that laminate cannot begin to touch. However Wilson Art now has a line called High Definition Laminate that does'nt look bad.The thing is if you are going to the trouble to build custom cabinets top them off with some class. I refuse to use corian or laminates in my designs ,period. That may sound snobby but thats the way I feel. I realize many people can't afford stone but they aren't my clients. Stone would be my first choice followed closely by concrete, then the new composite tops.

1. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 23, 2006 08:10am | #4

   That's all well and good, but laminate is still the least expensive counter top material -- and the only stuff to use if you want to make your own counters. Well, I suppose you could make your own solid surface counters.......................... but that is a bigger mountain than most DIY people want to climb.I've always had a hard time understanding why one poster around here will tell another not to do something, just because it runs counter to his own taste. ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   rompus62 | Sep 23, 2006 02:32pm | #6

   Yes I will agree that my statement is pompous. But after seeing and doing many kitchens the look of stone just cannot be topped. I use exotic venners and if you stuck a laminate counter on top it would cheapen the look. I understand he may not be able to afford stone but concrete is a great option too, it just adds that touch of class to a nice looking job. The extra effort or money spent now will be forgotten when the job is done.

1. 
   2x4 | Sep 24, 2006 06:07am | #7

   Here is another option for the edges on your laminate top. They are located in Portland, OR. Very helpful to talk to and they will send you a sample. A close look alike to solid surface if you pick the right laminate

   http://www.loticorp.com/products.html

   I have never used it and had concerns about the edge glue up lasting. People that have used it say they have never had such a problem so will be my choice for my next counter top in my own house.

    

   Brian

2. 
   quietude | Sep 26, 2006 04:43pm | #11

   I've done several concrete counter tops, and they really aren't all that bad. I favor the tops that are poured in place in order to eliminate seams. If the drip edge is a big issue, I would either build up a lip, or much easier, press a piece of pipe into the wet concrete near the edge in order to create a groove running back to the undermounted sink. The color choices are basically unlimited and if you are careful with your pour and skreeting then the time spent sanding should be around 4 hours. The cost is fairly equivalent to that of laminates, and they will last longer. Also you are less restricted in what you can and cannot do. I've nothing against laminates, I just think people are unduly intimidated by concrete countertops.

4. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 23, 2006 08:14am | #5

   The others have covered the bases on post-formed counter tops.

   It really isn't hard to make a laminate counter top with a wood edging, though. If you are building the cabinets, you no doubt have all the tools necessary for the job.

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

5. 
   wrudiger | Sep 25, 2006 06:30am | #8

   There was a very detailed article in Fine Homebuilding sometime in the last 6 yrs or so (sorry I can't be more specific) that talked about one way to install an undermount sink in a laminate countertop.  IIRC it includes details like forming in epoxy around the opening and lapping the laminate over it.  I could be off on the approch, but the thing that definately struck me is that you'd need to really want undermount to go to all that trouble.

   I believe there is at least one product on the market for that application as well.  Do a search over at Breaktime - I believe it was a topic a year or so ago.

6. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Sep 26, 2006 01:28am | #9

   There's also adapter rings generally made from solid-surface material.  They allow the use of any undermount sink under a laminate counter.   Counter-Seal (http://www.counter-seal.com/counter-seal2.html) is one example, but I believe I've seen others.

7. 
   bd | Sep 26, 2006 03:55pm | #10

   I'm going to disagree with the other posters on the drip-free edge. SWMBO likes them, so my last homemade version had one. Rockler sells a bit for routing the profile. The only caveat is that there's no way to cover it with laminate in a home shop. Use a wood for the drip edge that contrast with your chosen laminate & it will make an attractive installation.

   If you go that route, make sure you seal & finish the wood edging well, since it will be getting wet.

8. 
   DJK | Sep 26, 2006 04:52pm | #12

   Check out the counter edges from Kuhn Bevel. The options are endless. I'm bias toward Silestone counters because I'm a dealer. Better than granite.

   DJK

9. 
   jackplane | Sep 26, 2006 05:26pm | #13

   1. Best left to a factory, not a home shop.

   2. see above

   3. Above freezing, and really, above 45F is best.

   4. haven't used their sinks, but I've made my own undermount sinks, no problem. But I recommend avoiding MDF anywhere near a source of water.

   Good luck!

    

10. 
    cwalvoord | Sep 26, 2006 09:38pm | #14

    You seem to have gotten good answers to your questions on laminates so I thought I would throw out another idea. I have not tried it but from what I read soapstone can be machined using woodworking tools.

    http://www.greenmountainsoapstone.com/about_soapstone.html

    Not sure what the material costs but I am sure that by doing your own fabrication you could save a lot of $ and get exactly what you want in terms of edge detail, undermount sink, etc. Of course you may or may not like the look of soapstone but from my research it sounds like a good material for counter tops.

    I have ordered a soapstone countertop for my wet bar but it is not done yet so I can't comment on the results.
    Chris

11. 
    boater | Sep 27, 2006 04:27pm | #15

    In answer to your question regarding no drip countertop , I recently made a laminate top with a cherry no drip edge formed with a router bit purchased from Lee Valley.

    The edging was milled seperately and glued on with epoxy glue

    I also used a Karran sink and followed their installation instructions with the exception of using epoxy adhesive instead of the recomended adhesive . The whole job turned out well & my Wife is pleased with it.

    The route bit is no. 16J18.51 in the Lee Valley catalog , and the epoxy was West System resin thickened. Hope this helps.

1. 
   cmyk45 | Sep 27, 2006 05:53pm | #16

   Thanks for the info. I thought there might be a milling solution but there are a gazillion bits and I've not seen this (or noticed) this one before. Also you are the very first person who has used Karran undermount process to respond, even though I've posted this on other sites.

   I hope you'll allow me one more query, what kind of finish (product) did you use on the edging?

   [email protected]

   Thx again!  Berry in St Paul.

    

1. 
   boater | Sep 27, 2006 08:19pm | #17

   The  finish I used was  Minwax Wipe-On Poly (gloss) . It is holding up well, and looks good . This finish compared well in a product test in Fine Woodworking a few issues ago. I'm not shure of the issue no.