Replies

1. 
   Floss | Jan 29, 2009 07:07pm | #1

   Just use frame and panel construction and attach the drawer slides to the stiles of the case side.

   Or attach a cleat to the stiles and then apply the slide hardware.

   If you are going to the trouble why not just add drawer dividers and runners and forgo the hardware. Or you could still use hidden glides like Blum tandem etc.

   If you choose solid case sides just attach cleats to the side with slotted screw holes and install the hardware on the cleats.

   Basically you just want to avoid restricting panel movement. There are many ways to achieve that depending on how much work you want to put into the project and what look you are trying to achieve.

   Even at 90 euros plywood will still save a lot of time. Probably come out even when compared to building with solid wood.

   F.

1. 
   Ozzy | Jan 29, 2009 08:13pm | #2

   Hi, Floss, good to meet you.

   Thanks for the advice, and I will bear in mind your comment about the cost of the plywood versus the time involved.

   Take care,

   Ozzy

2. 
   brad805 | Jan 29, 2009 08:30pm | #3

   There is a pretty good article discussing the realities of working with solid wood for the carcase in FWW.  I plan to do this (for other reasons) and the carcases will be frame/panel.  I agree with using the hardware you are planning.  The self close or touch open hardware is great and will pay off in a kitchen. Have you looked at some of the Hafele hardware?  They have some nice items for kitchens and they are a european company (beware, its kind of pricey).  The trick to using the hardware you propose is largely the drawer layout.  You need to make sure you have a rail at the correct mounting height for your drawers or make the stiles for the case sides wide enough to mount the hardware at the ends only.  You will have to pick out the hardware and find the shop drawings for each (all available from accuride) so you can complete a layout first.  I wouldnt attach the hardware to the floating panels.  I am planning to use a lock miter joint at the case corners, but I am sure a simple dado would suffice too.  This first unit of yours sounds like it has a few dividers.  If the length between dividers turns out to be relatively short I suspect your 3/4" stock will be fine from a strength standpoint.

   I am sure more will chime in with advice.  I assumed your time is not a concern as this method will add dramatically to the build time. 

   Brad

1. 
   Ozzy | Jan 29, 2009 08:47pm | #4

   Hi, Brad, good to meet you, and thanks for the input.  I did plan to use Hafele, they are the only trade supplier I can find, and it gets very complicated because Hafele (UK) will not ship to France.  There is a Hafele France, but that obviously means conversing in French - I can order beers, but technical stuff is way beyond me yet.  Your comment about Accuride plans is interesting - I didn't know that, I will check it out.  The first kitchen used Hafele slides, with a 'soft close' function.  They were very sexy, but soon started to give trouble, so I will not be using them.  They were nice, though, hung under the drawer sides, so all you could see were my lovely dovetailed (using a Leigh jig) drawer corners.

   Take care,

   Ozzy

1. 
   Glaucon | Jan 30, 2009 12:01am | #5

   "...There is a Hafele France, but that obviously means conversing in French ..."My experience in France is that you should be able to manage an order from the local company. Speaking as an American, I have found that English is widely spoken in France, but the French resent being forced to use it, or that it is expected of them. There are many small towns along the western Loire and the Dordogne that are teeming with English speaking ex-pats and country householders, so this renovation issue is not new.My French is minimal, but I began every conversation with "Bonjours", and then ask permission to use English, or help with my French vocab. In 9 out of 10 cases, I have been greeted with a smile and an English response. When I conclude the conversation, I always say merci, and make eye contact. My impression is that sometimes Americans are too forward or too informal, and this can be off-putting (perhaps the English or Canadians are less prone to this). When we do this in the U.S., foreigners find it welcoming and charming... when we do it too readily abroad, it can seem rude.If I were in your spot, I would contact the company and ask for a local supplier. Email the supplier, and explain that you would like to place an order, but alas, your French is not up to the task. Is there someone who might be able to help you in English? Use the catalog, and I'll bet you'll do fine. Since the penalty for a mistake in the order is delay and cost, having someone help you (to whom you can return if there is a problem) is a good idea. Given the cost of the hardware and the typical EU mark-up, they'll be well compensated for the trouble.Just my 2 sou, bon chance...Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

1. 
   Ozzy | Jan 30, 2009 09:31pm | #8

   Hi, Glaucon, good to meet you.

   Thanks for the advice, it makes a lot of sense.

   Take care,

   Ozzy

2. 
   brad805 | Jan 30, 2009 12:30am | #6

   Do you have the Hafele Bible?  Part numbers sound like they will be helpful given the language barrier.  It also has the shop drawings.  Gluacon's comment to get some help is great.  Hafele sends their reps to courses to learn about hardware and when I ask questions I usually get very good advice.

   What went wrong with your slides? 

   Brad

1. 
   Ozzy | Jan 30, 2009 09:28pm | #7

   Hi, Brad,

   Yup, I have the bible, I'll take a better look.

   The Hafele slides started sticking, and not closing all the way.  It happened on a couple of drawers - probably the two we used the most, after a couple of years.  Disappointing, they worked great at first.

   Take care,

   ozzy