Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Jul 03, 2006 06:24pm | #1

   Kitchen tables get a lot of abuse. The finish usually used is varnish or lacquer.

   Tung oil will be just a little more protective than linseed, but neither will give anywhere near the kind of toughness usually needed. They will both be somewhat water resistant (not waterproof) but will have almost no resistance to surface abrasion, dings, nicks, cuts and the various chemicals that will inevitably spill. On the brighter side, they are both easy to "repair," but easy is a relative term, and I would not use the table for at least a month after refreshing an oil finish.

   I recommend Behlens Rockhard Varnish for this kind of project. Thin it with equal parts of solvent for the first coat. Scuff sand after 24-48 hours with 320 grit, then apply at least 3 full coats, scuff sanding in-between each after 48 hours. Let the final coat harden for at least a month before rubbing out with 320, 400, 600, then up to whatever final abrasive size through automotive rubbing and polishing compound that gives you the look you want.

   Rich

   
   

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   Edited 7/3/2006 11:29 am ET by Rich14

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 03, 2006 07:44pm | #2

   I agree with Rich.  If you use either of the oils, expect to have stains appear as soon as you stop hovering with a towel.  The Rockhard is good stuff.  It may provide more ambering than you desire--test it to be sure.  (The oil finishes would have a similar ambering effect.) If the test finish ends up too yellow your alternative is to a good waterborne finish, probably from Target or Fuhr.  The waterborne will be a bit more of a challenge to rub out, and won't be as protective as the Rockhard (but still WAY more than oil finishes.) 

3. 
   pins | Jul 03, 2006 09:59pm | #3

   Most everything except water-based finishes will have some yellowing affect and white ash exposed to sunlight will yellow naturally; stick a board out in the sun for a day or two, half protected. The question is will the amount, or degree, of oil-based whitewash you use stop the natural and finish related yellowing.

   I made some pine furniture about 20 years ago and some more about 15 years ago, utilitarian stuff, and finished them with Behr's Clear Lac which is available only at Home Depot and not all stores carry it. (But its great, drys as fast as lacquer and looks a lot like varnish.) Both lots have retained the appearance of the original pickling but some of the natural yellowing of the pine is obvious. But as you know pine yellows more than white ash.

   I agree with the two previous post re: oils but a polymerized tung oil gives much better protection than pure tung oil.

   If your table is going to take a beating I would recommend Waterlox Original. It is a polymerized tung oil with resins added. Its very tough. Sands easy, rubs out well, and you can power buff it to as much gloss as you want with outwax.

   I brush as many thin coats as I think I need, sanding with 220 white no-load between coats and then 320 no-load towards the end of the brushed coats. The last thin coat I wipe on with new flannel that has been washed a couple of times. Then I final 'sand' with 0000 steel wool, rub it out with rottenstone using 1/2 parafin oil diluted w/ 1/2 mineral spirits then buff.

   John

   PS: If you are trying to match commercially made cabinets it will be tough because of all the catalized lacquers and stuff they use.

1. 
   willy | Jul 03, 2006 11:04pm | #4

   t.y. all for your comments. I'm north of the 49th so may have to do a little research for Behlens but Behr's is available from our local HD