I am starting a kitchen table project and need some guidance on what type of finish to use on the top. I have only used tung oil, poly and nitro lacquer in my days. Reading the forum it sounds like a varnish is good to use for table tops? I also need help on where to order the finish from, since my small town has nothing here.
I made the mistake on a recent nightstand project of finishing a slide out drink shelf with lacquer. I guess a wet glass will trash lacquer pretty quick? Any solutions for quick fixing that one? Kind of confused on finishes because I used the Tung oil on a coffe table, and I got water rings on it and I was told it had very good water resistance. Thanks for the help!
John (Newbie)
Replies
I refinished our Ethan Allen kitchen table about 14 years ago with 2 coats of wiped on poly and two coats of sprayed on. It still looks like a new one.
For the wipe on, I cut the poly about 35%. For spraying it was cut maybe 15%. I probably used Deft brand poly as it has been my favorite for many years. Did light buffing with 0000 steel wool between coats and power buffed the final coat.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
John,
Varnish (including polyurethane) is a good choice for tables. It's resistant to damage from water, heat, scratching, and household chemicals. Jeff Jewitt has an article that compares the properties of different finishes at this link - Selecting a Finish. There's a link in the article to a chart that compares the durability characteristics of the finishes.
Lacquer is in the middle as far as durability goes. It is susceptable to damage from water, especially in the first month while it's still curing. If you have a white or milky area in the lacquer, you can remove it by spraying a light coat of lacquer retarder on the surface or a wet coat of lacquer. The solvents in lacquer will dissolve the previous coat and allow the moisture that's trapped in the finish to escape.
Paint stores are a good source for varnish. In my area, Ace/True Value Hardware carries Waterlox (.com) Varnish that is a good brand. Some good brands to choose from include;
Waterlox Original Wood Finish - Tung oil & phenolic resin interior varnish with exceptional durability (use to be marketed as a Gym Floor Finish). Rich amber color. Thinner than Behlen and can be brushed or wiped.
Behlen RockHard Table Top Varnish - Phenolic resins and tung oil create a rich amber color that darkens with time. An extremely hard gloss finish with excellent resistance to abrasions, water, alcohol, chemicals, etc. This finish rubs out well.
Daly's ProFin - A urethane and alkyd resin blend finish that dries hard and fast. Colour, pale yellow.
General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal - A blend of tung oil and alkyd and urethane resins that produces a high-gloss. Has a medium amber color. It's the "tung oil" finish used by David Marks on his TV show; though it's really a nice looking wiping poly.
Old Masters Super Varnish - An alkyd varnish with amber coloring. Dries pretty fast. Sands well and has low odor. Brushes well without thinning.
Pratt & Lambert #38 - Alkyd varnish with light coloring like McCloskeys Heirloom Varnish. Good to retain the light color of white woods like maple.
There are many good varnishes on the market, including a few waterborne products (e.g., Target Coatings (.com)). Try different ones as you get the opportunity.
Paul
Thanks for the input you guys. I am always interested in new ways of doing things. I think I may give the Varnish a try. Any tricks about application, # of coats, etc.? I think the article in the new FWW talks about varnish, if so, I will shut up now and read it again. Thanks for the help.
John
I use a lot of Target PSL (Premium Spray Lacquer). It's water base, and can be sprayed or brushed. It's almost as hard as catalyzed lacquer, and is impervious to water, alcohol, etc.
Go to http://www.homesteadfinishing.com and check out the product line.
John
The one case where I would put poly at the top of the list of finishes is for kitchen or bathroom furniture. There's just too much water in either area ( steam and peoples mistakes, spilled) to go with anything else for the long run. Just my view of how the world turns. ha.. ha...
I am getting ready to replace my current break-fast nook table. Nothing wrong with the one I built 28 years ago with poly finish, but the "boss" wants a new look.
Regards...
sarge..jt
Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
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