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I’d be interested in comments on my approach….using Minwax satin oil poly over a stain (Minwax golden oak liquid two coats, followed by Minwax aged oak gel stain). This is all over red oak.
My wife is really pleased with the “softened” oak look. Now for the poly…
We chose oil poly because we favor the softened glow that builds as oil poly yellows a bit with age.
For the face frames and drawer fronts, we used the satin poly by wiping it on.
First coat was intended as a sealer so I cut the poly with about 25% (by volume) mineral spirits. Easy. When we tried next coat with uncut poly, she had trouble wiping (I was busy feverishly cutting more wood). We then applied coats 2 thru 4 with the cut poly (25% spirits). We installed the cabinets & attached frames pre stained, but are wiping poly in place. With the 4th coat, the buildup is finally showing some luster. I know it’s not enough thickness for durability yet. I’m thinking about going ahead and brushing a final coat.
For the doors I’m now making, I’m enjoying two separate router table setups for the rail & stile bits (just finished replacing my powermatic issued green extension with my own MDF/laminate top complete with Woodhaven plate; this gives me a second router table setup; other is a Jointech)…pardon a little gloat. We plan to stain the same but I’m probably going to use my hvlp to spray the poly (sealer coat cut followed by a full strength poly coat.
Thoughts?
mike
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If you've got an HVLP unit why did you waste your time with all those thinned rub-on coats?
*Jed, what can I say?? Actually, I got backed into a corner by my countertop installer (corian folks get really touchy when dealing with private individuals doing their own cabinet work). I had to go with the frames on to hold their install date or get pushed way back.I would have sprayed otherwise.mike
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