I am using Kreg pocket screw joints on a face frame. The wood is mahogany and has been recycled. The wood is close to 30 years old. I am having trouble with splitting the wood when the joint is close to the end of the board. I am using the Kreg screws with a fine thread. Any suggestions on how to stop the splitting.
Bob
Replies
Hi Bob ,
How close to end ?
I use pocket screws and every now and then closer then 3/4" to the end will get a split in some woods .
Try drilling away from the ends when possible .
regards dusty
That is probably the problem I am only about 1/2" from the end. I am building the frame out of 2" wide material and centering two holes on the 2" board. That puts the holes very close to the edge. I will try to cheat them away from the edge and see how that works.
Thanks for the feedback
Bob
Bob ,
I can get 2 pocket holes in pieces 1 1/2" so in the 2" place the problem end no closer then 1 " or more if possible .
Never used a Kreg jig but have used this shop made jig for 25 years
dusty
It's easy to overtighten screws of all kinds. When I install Kreg joints where the holes have to be relatively close to the edge, I install the screws by hand so I can feel the amount of tension. You don't need to tighten Kreg screws very much for them to hold fast.
Tom Hintz
Because there is always more to learn!
Have you tried some lube on the threads, drop of wood glue will do. make the pocket drilling less deep, This will reduce the wedgeing action causing the split. Test on some off cuts.
The self-tapping feature of the Kreg screws should minimize (or eliminate) the splitting. You might try:
1. Adjust your depth stop so the drill point just penetrates the end of the board you're drilling.
2. Keep the hole nearest the end 1/2", or so, from the edge.
3. When you're driving the screws, don't use too much pressure. The screw tip is removing wood that has to move thru the screw threads as it goes into the board. If it can't get clear, it can act as a plug and cause splitting.
4. Try using a coarse thread screw. Mahogany isn't really all that hard.
I used to split wood with my Kreg screws.
I find that drilling till the bit penetrates the board you are drilling causes the wood to split more. At least with cherry. The shoulder will be too deep and the screw goes too far into the second board, especially with longer than needed screws.
I do the opposite. I set the drill bit stop so the bit does not quite exit the wood I am initially drilling through. I also use the shortest screws possible. The screws only need to penetrate less than half way through the second board.
I also never use my electric drill. That can easily put the screws too deep and crack the board. I use my cordless with the clutch set on 3 of 5 then when all the screws are in, I retighten all the screws on setting 4.
Edited 1/1/2009 11:03 pm ET by dynamwebz
I haven't used my Kreg on cherry, but I haven't had any problems on alder, oak, beech, birch, maple, pine, fir, or plywood.I think the real "tricks" are to:
1. Use the correct length screws. I use whatever is listed on the box.
2. Use the correct threads. Coarse for soft woods and fine for hardwoods.
3. Don't "overdrive" the screws. I use a cordless drill on slow speed with the clutch dialed down to 10 or 11 - and stop at the first click.
I have pretty much a full kitchen of face frames and a few other items in the house all made with Cherry and Kreg joints. I have had ONE split and that was a little tiny frame (say 1" or so) and I was very close to the end and it had some funny grain issues.
I would second the comment about correct screws, size and thread.
Doug M
And screw tightness. On my first pocket screw joint, I left the cordless on high speed and didn't dial down the clutch. Nothing split, but one screw snapped off and getting the joint apart so I could remove the screw was a serious PITA! - lolI suspect that overtightening the screws also causes lots of problems, but some folks seem to believe that tighter must be better. They must have gone to the same school as the people who use a hammer on the blade wrench when changing a saw blade. - lol
Edited 1/2/2009 2:56 pm by Dave45
Being using the Kreg fro a few years and had the occasional split.
My Sweettie bought me a small B&D driver and it's real handy for geting into smaller places and its narrow snoot lets you use a 4 inch bit for getting into smaller spots, and it's no fire ball so overdriving isn't an issue.
I have two of those - a B&D and a Skil. I got the first one a couple of years ago to install drawer glides in a computer desk where my regular cordless wouldn't fit. The original idea was to use it for that job and store it in a drawer or give it away. Instead, it became my "go to" driver for all of my drawer glides, hinges, pulls, and handles. It also gets lots of use on electrical box covers, switches and receptacles, as well as any job where the 18v cordless is more than I really need.I've never tried one of them on pocket screws, but will see how they do.
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