Replies

1. 
   GW52 | Jul 29, 2009 03:46pm | #1

   I have used the jig for numerous face frames and have never run into that problem. I know if the drill stop is not adjusted correctly you run the risk of the screw tip showing or popping out on the face of the frame.

   Greg

1. 
   furndr | Jul 30, 2009 02:48am | #4

   Unfortunately,  that's not what is happening. I haven't seen any sign of the screw penetrating too far. It appears that the hardness of the wood is the culprit. The angle that the pocket screws enter the frame doesn't help the situation either, but I don't believe that can be adjusted.

   I hope it's not necessary to use such hard wood in the future.

      

2. 
   489tad | Jul 29, 2009 06:03pm | #2

   Are you useing the correct screw?  They make two.  One for soft material, one for hard.

1. 
   furndr | Jul 30, 2009 02:50am | #5

   'Fraid so. I'm using the fine thread small shank version sold by Kreg. I got them at Woodcraft when I bought the jig.

3. 
   Frank Vucolo | Jul 29, 2009 07:59pm | #3

   Are you using the correct setting to center the screw in 3/4 stock?
   I have an old model and am not sure how the newer ones adjust, but there are different configurations for 1/2, 3/4 and 1-1/2 stock.

   Frank

1. 
   furndr | Jul 30, 2009 02:57am | #6

   I'm using the setting given for 3/4" stock, but you might have something at that. After looking at some of the holes  I notice that some of them are a little off center.  I'll see if I can play around with the adjustment and get them in the center of the stock.

   Good point -Thanks!    

4. 
   oldusty | Jul 30, 2009 07:24am | #7

     I use pocket screws on face frames and most hardwood I use comes in at 13/16ths , if your stock is a thin 3/4" or less that is problematic to start .

       It's true the depth of the hole into the drilled piece determines the outcome of the screw so set it correct .

       If I place a screw too close to the end of a stick it may crack , like 3/4" or less .

     your not screwing in to end grain are you ?

            regards              dusty

1. 
   furndr | Jul 30, 2009 02:21pm | #8

   Regarding your question about end grain,  I have been careful to avoid doing that.

   As I mentioned in an earlier post, I hope to avoid exotic wood face frames in the future. I have a good friend who is a fulltime cabinet maker  and he says that he has not experienced this problem using soft maple, oak and cherry for his frames.

   Thanks for the reply.

5. 
   swannyww | Jul 30, 2009 08:05pm | #9

   I drill the pockets and glue the pieces together, then I add the screws. Even with the Kreg clamp the screw can move the wood out of alignment ever so slightly. You could test this out to see if gluing the pieces together and letting them dry, then adding screws works for splitting.

1. 
   furndr | Jul 31, 2009 03:42pm | #10

   I'll try that on some scraps and see what happens.

   Thanks!

6. 
   jackplane | Jul 31, 2009 04:14pm | #11

   What is tigerwood? You mean maple?

   Your problem could be caused by using the wrong screws-bugle head or standard head. You need to use screws with a flat head to prevent splitting.

   Expert since 10 am.

1. 
   furndr | Aug 02, 2009 04:14pm | #12

   I believe the correct name is goncala alves. (Smith & Wesson used to use it to make grips for their revolvers.) It's a tropical hardwood about 2 1/2 times as hard as white oak. It's often used for flooring in high-end houses, but my client wanted to use it in an outdoor kitchen island.

   If I get future requests to use this  material for faceframing I'll probably have to  increase my price. It's a real beast to work with.

   furndr

7. 
   BobMc | Aug 02, 2009 07:04pm | #13

   You've probably seen this link: http://www.connectedlines.com/wood/wood28.htm regarding working qualities of tigerwood.

   In any case, have you tried drilling the pilot hole in the attaching piece larger than the screw shank, so only the threads cut into the wood and there is no wedging action from the screw shaft?

   Given that you have probably done all reasonable things, you might just go ahead and dowel-pin the frames (and skip the pocket holes and screws).  I use Kreg's system for pocket holes, but always have trouble keeping the pieces from moving slightly as I draw them up, even with an assortment of clamps.  You are looking at drilling four holes per joint with dowels, versus two for the pocket holes, and two for the pilot holes, so as I see it, the benefit may lie only in the clamping action of the pocket screw, but that is lost with one split joint, or one joint that moves out of position and needs planing or sanding to get it right. 

   If you have already drilled all of the pocket holes, but can't solve the splitting problem, you could use pocket hole plugs to fill the voids (for instance http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5756&ne_ppc_id=776), then drill for dowels as normal.  This might be quicker, easier, cheaper than trying to dowel at 22.5 degrees to take a pocket hole screw.