I am building a small cabinet that will have 3/4″ solid wood sides and top. I would lilke to join the sides to the top to produce a joint similar in appearance to a Krenov cabinet. The grain in the sides and top run in the same direction so I do not have a cross-grain differential expansion problem. Does anyone know how he makes this joint?
My first thought is to use a sliding dovetail but I am concerned that the joint will be structurally weak this close to the corner. I have considered dovetails but I prefer the appearance of the Krenov approach.
Any suggestions?
Replies
I don't know how Krenov does it but half blind dovetails should do the trick.
Don't really know what Krenov cabinet you are referring to but in one of his books he uses dowels. Why don't you get one of his books?
Rick
Krenov goes to some lengths defending the use of dowels in this joint. The cabinet design is wonderful, but I disagree about the strength of the dowel joint. A "blind box joint" or multiple M&T joints in place of the dowels with the M&Ts correctly oriented to maximize long grain to long grain is much stronger. Tage Frid demonstrates such joints in several of his books.
Krenov's joint will probably fail after no more than 200-300 years. Piker.
R
Rich,
I was unaware that Krenov used dowels in is joints. I have several of his books but somehow I missed finding any discussion regarding how he made these joints. I think the multiple M & T joints makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the suggestion.
Ken
jim discusses doweling in depth in "the fine art of cabinetmaking." joking aside, i think the success and longevity of jim's pieces and those of his students attest to the viability of this joint when carefully done. i trained at college of the redwoods. i would be happy to answer any specific questions about doweling, but don't feel like writing an id depth treatise on the whole thing...
-Kit
Kit,
Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately, Over the years I have had very little success with aligning dowels and therefore I have avoided this technique. However, it is very interesting to learn that Krenov is such a strong advocate of this system.
Ken
krenov style doweling is dependent on a homemade jig. though you must spend the time tobuild one for each project, they are pretty low tech and ensure accurate results in alignment as the same jig is used to drill both parts. i don't know if your doweling was done with one of the metal clamp-on ytpe jigs. i've always had rotten luck with those. again, i'd be happy to explain the jig, or provide references in fww, etc. next tiem you have a little quickie project for tool storage or something, give it a shot...
-Kit
Kit,
A slight bit off topic, but I wonder if you've seen the dowel cutter being marketed over in the UK (and probably Europe too)? It looks exactly like a biscuit cutter, but has three drills for dowel holes, rather than a cutter for a biscuit slot. I forget who makes it; maybe Trend? It looked very interesting, and I immediately thought of JK when I saw the add for one in Furniture and Cabinetmaking magazine. I can track it down in a recent issue if you're interested. Just an interesting bit of info.
Cheers,
Greg
can't say i have. sounds interesting, does it plunge the way a biscuit joiner does? i saw another nice variation in one of charlesworth's books using a plexi template and plunge router...
I know the one you mean, in Charlesworth's first book. Simple plastic template for use with a router and guide collar. The page immediately before that one has a simple doweling jig he attributes to JK.
I looked up the biscuit jointer-like dowel hole driller. If anyone else out there gets F&C, it is at page 41 in the July 2002 issue. It's action is exactly like a biscuit jointer, except it has two (not three, as I guessed, above) drills. Standard size is 8mm, but one can interchange these with 4, 6, 10 and 12mm. The cool innovation is the two alignment pins on the face plate of the tool, placed astride the drill bits. They are spring loaded, and so don't come into play when drilling the first holes, but do fit into already drilled holes if the aim is to space one's dowels equal distances apart. Does that make sense? Similar theory as a box joint cutting jig on a tablesaw, where one's last notch is slid over the key in the jig in order to properly space the next notch. The dowel driller is made by a German firm called Mafell. The reviewer from F&C writes that it is very well made. It is called a dowel jointer (rather than a biscuit jointer), and is obviously for those who use a lot of dowels for jointing.
Here is a link to the manufacturer.
http://www.mafell.com/produkte/prod_bohren_dd40_i.htm
There is a picture there. I rarely use my biscuit jointer, but this tool seems very intriguing. I just couldn't justify the expense for what I do.
Cheers,
Greg
i would trade you a jig for a jig.
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