I’ve got a Laburnum tree that needs several large branches and one trunk removing. Some look pretty shot but there are a couple that look healthy and alive (but are pushing a wall over hence the death sentence!). I remember reading somewhere that this is the wood that is used for making oyster veneers. Is that true? If so what do I need to do to keep them in best condition – slice when wet or dry the log first? Diameters vary from 4 to 8 in.
If its not the wood used for oysters is there anything else that it is good/ bad for?
Thanks
Tim
Replies
I have fooled with oysters a little and I can give you my method.
Saw them green, sticker with wooden matches in bundles, 25-30, dry vertically and weighted to keep flat.
Some times you may want a specific size for a project. I band saw the length for a flat side and repeat to a rough square. Now there easier to band saw. If I cut them round I remove the bark with a draw knife.
Make a jig or some thing to do repeated thin uniform cuts. Keep in sequence.
Thanks for your response Ron - I've got a couple of questions though:
If you bandsaw for a flat side then don't you lose the shape of the oyster or am I missing something?
How thin do you cut them and how long do you leave to dry?
These all have bark on them, some more sound than others. Do I only use the dark part of the oyster or the yellow band around it as well (about 10% of the total size)?
These are probably really dumb questions but I'm excited about learning something new (and trying to get it right!).
Many thanks
Tim
I've got a couple of questions though:
If you band saw for a flat side then don't you lose the shape of the oyster or am I missing something?
Lets say you have 8" diameter. raw tree. it may not be round to begin with. Its tapered and oval to some degree, but your going to wind up with a natural taper as you cut any way. You benefit several ways by cutting a flat length wise. It makes sawing easier, it also orients the oysters.
My suggestion is to try a piece of any kind of green tree, preferably hardwood. I cut them as thin as the wood allows, try different angles.
I dry them in an unheated garage. They dry in a couple of months. I think autumn or early winter is probably the best time to collect your wood because of lower sap levels.
These all have bark on them, some more sound than others. Do I only use the dark part of the oyster or the yellow band around it as well (about 10% of the total size)?
Remove the bark, or you have a big mess to deal with later. it gets loose as it dries. Once its dry you can use it any diameter you want. The outer wood is of a lesser quality.
There is a company in England that gets over a buck per wafer, they are smooth (sanded) on both sides and about .080 - .100 thick. when available.
Yes, laburnum is often used for making oyster veneers. See Silas Kopf's article on the subject in FWW no. 169, pp. 106 and 108.
Got it and going to read it now.
Thanks
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