Replies

1. 
   furndr | Jun 06, 2007 02:33pm | #1

   I haven't had much experience with lacewood, except where I found it as trim on antiques. However, I have had a lot of  experience with sanders since I have been refinishing furniture for about 30 years.  The best I have encountered is a variable speed Bosch random orbit 6". I'm not sure of the model number, but it sells in many of the catalogs for about $150.  This sander can do everything from rubbing out a finish at the lower speeds to removing stock almost as well as a belt sander at the higher speeds  (assuming you use the right abrasive disc - I use Klingspor). Best of all, it doesn't leave the tell-tale swirls. I'm sure there are more expensive sanders out there, but I doubt there's a better one!  

   Good luck!

1. 
   KnotNow | Jun 07, 2007 02:15am | #3

   I think this is the way I will go. Did more scraping last night with mixed results. Had considered the Porter-Cable 6" random orbit as have not seen Bosch arond this area. It should have as much "enthusiasm" I hope as the Bosch.

   Tnx for the help..

1. 
   ohcomeon | Jun 07, 2007 04:05am | #4

   Knot, I've never used lacewood, but a number of people have reported that it can elicit nasty allergic reactions; the dustier, the worse.  So if you choose to sand, get a good respirator and wear long sleaves.

   I would try a well tuned scraper first to minimize dust.

2. 
   Knotscott | Jun 06, 2007 02:40pm | #2

   Lacewood is more prone to tearout than most woods.  You might try wetting the surface and taking very light passes if you're using a planer .

3. 
   Kevin | Jun 07, 2007 05:28pm | #5

   I've made several "objects d'art" with Lacewood and have been perfectly content with the results of sanding it with a pneumatic RA sander using 320 grit paper or mesh.

   RA sanders come in three basic configurations based on the diameter of the orbits: 3/32, 3/16 and 3/8. 3/32 is best suited to polishing type tasks as the least aggresive at any given grit, 3/16 is best suited to general prep sanding tasks and 3/8 is best suited to heavy sanding tasks where you want to remove a lot of material quickly because with the larger orbits it is the most aggresive at any given grit.

   I personally prefer the 3/16 orbit as the most versatile. It's capable of doing all tasks with some limitations. A 3/8 orbit sander is simply too aggresive for polishing tasks and a 3/32 is way too slow for heavy material removal or even prep sanding tasks. A 3/16 isn't nearly as fast a material removal as the 3/8, but it does work. And while one definitely has to be careful polishing with a 3/16 RA sander, it can be done.

   Just to illustrate the differences between the various orbit RA sanders, a guy I used to work with bought himself an expensive brand new pneumatic RA sander of the same brand that I had. But he quickly became dissatisfied with it and complained to me that it took too long to prep sand a surface with it. It was readily apparent to him that at the exact same grit of sandpaper, my sander did the task much faster than his and he didn't understand why. Upon examining his sander I discovered that his was a 3/32 orbit sander whereas mine was a 3/16 orbit sander. That was the only difference between the two sanders, yet mine easily outperformed his at prep sanding.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/7/2007 10:29 am by Kevin

1. 
   KnotNow | Jun 08, 2007 02:01am | #6

   Well, I had no idea there was a difference in the orbit diameter! I was looking into getting the Porter Cable 7336, but could find no mention on the site I looked at as to the orbit diameter. Same with the Bosch. Question now becomes; how can one tell the orbit diameter?

   One thing leads to the next in this business...

1. 
   Kevin | Jun 08, 2007 03:47am | #7

   They may only come in one configuration. If so I'd bet on it being 3/16. I'd suggest contacting each of the manufactorers and asking. I doubt that either Porter Cable or Bosch make their own sanders. Most likely someone else makes them and they simply rebadge them.

   If you go to the website of a company that pretty much does nothing but make abrasive tools then you'll see them break down the tools into which size orbit they come in with corresponding part numbers for each.

   Dynabrade, the brand that I usually prefer, makes both electric and pneumatic sanders and a variety of other tools for sanding and grinding operations. They list the available orbit size on all of their RA sanders (they make many!) as well as a description of what each orbit size is best suited for.

1. 
   KnotNow | Jun 09, 2007 01:51am | #8

   I looked at a Rigid 6"  RO sander last night that seems to be able to change the orbit diameter via a knob on the side. Going out on the weekend to see what else is available, now that I know this is something to look for. Thanks for info; saved me some grief..

1. 
   Kevin | Jun 09, 2007 09:10am | #9

   If the Rigid you looked at is the 2610 then I'd say it looks interesting. I just did a websearch and found a very informative review on it. Apparently it's simply a rebadged German-made Metabo. According to the review the Metabo sanders, and this model in particular, are very highly regarded. Other than the different color scheme, the Rigid retails for about half as much as the Metabo. It's pretty hard to argue with paying half price for a desirable tool. Here's the review: http://zo-d.com/stuff//ridgid-2610-6-inch-random-orbital-sander-review.html

   Reportedly the adjustments on this sander are a choice between 1/4 and 1/8. Both seem to me like they'd be pretty aggresive. Although if it operates at a fairly low RPM then perhaps that aggresiveness would be muted.

   The other thing to consider is swirl marks. Reportedly the tighter orbit RA sanders are much better at not leaving swirl marks. I say reportedly because I've only used three or four different brands of pneumatic sanders over the last 25 years and really can't speak to anything else from personal experience. None of them left swirl marks except occasionally and that almost always could be traced back to torn or folded sandpaper. What I can tell you is that Dynabrade claims to cause the least swirl marks compared to their competition and that I've seen commentary from woodworkers online stating pretty much the same thing. I personally don't think the brand is as important as the diameter of the orbit, but that's just my lay opinion.

2. 
   KnotNow | Jun 10, 2007 02:06am | #11

   It seems to be superceded by the 2611. Very similiar model; the orbit selection button has moved. I picked one up today, but won't be able to try it for 2 whole weeks due to work schedule. I had a 10% off coupon for Home Depot good 'till the end of the month; too good to pass up. It feels solid, and based on the review link you posted, is just what I was after. Also it's orange like my old '72 240Z, so there's a nostalgic factor..

   I'll let you know how it works out.

3. 
   KnotNow | Jun 23, 2007 03:47pm | #13

   I picked up the Ridgid and finally got a chance to try it out. I do a lot of travel and this leaves little time left over for making sawdust. I'm very happy with it; I did one of the lacewood panels and the ability to switch between orbit diameters is a great feature. It is just aggressive enough at the largest orbit, and at the smallest it does an excellent job at achieving a smooth finish. I went to 220. Thanks for the tips..

4. 
   msal | Jun 09, 2007 07:34pm | #10

   I've surfaced a fair amount of lacewood and found significant tearout using machines.  Instead, I switched to scrapers (slow and not effective if you have to reduce a lot of thickness) and a hand plane with a high angle blade (in my case a Bevel Up Jack plane from Veritas/Lee Valley with a 50 degree blade).  Works amazingly well on tough woods like lacewood, bubinga, etc.

1. 
   KnotNow | Jun 10, 2007 02:11am | #12

   I have tried the scraper route, and patience is definitely a key ingredient there! I do have the 50 degree York pitch blade and the Lee Valley bevel up smoother, but can't completely eliminate tearout. I got the Rigid 6" RO dual orbit sander today, so it will be interesting to see how that works out. The wood sure is a challenge! A few years ago, I made a coffee table with some real nice Bubinga, and sanded by hand. No more; life's too short..