I have repaired a small damaged spot on a high gloss lacker finished piano top and steel wooled the last coat with oooo steel wool then waxed it. Even when I waxed the damaged repaired spot it is not as glossy as the rest of the top. I did use lacker for the repair.Help!
Thanks in advance
Sharpy
Edited 9/17/2004 3:40 pm ET by sharpy
Replies
sharpy,
You need to rub out the lacquer with finer abrasives than 0000 steel wool. For semi-gloss you can stop after rubbing out with 0000 steel wool lubricated with wool lube; but for high gloss--as most pianos have--you'll need to rub out with both grades of pumice and then with rottenstone, all three lubricated with paraffin oil.
Begin with a little sprinkle of 2f pumice and a lot of paraffin oil. Then move to 4f pumice and then rottenstone. Use a new felt block with all three abrasives. Be very generous with the paraffin oil and a little stingy with the abrasives. Rub, rub, rub. Patience. Rub some more. More patience. Rub, rub, rub...
If after all this it still doesn't match, there are finer abrasives you can use. You can also use wax to even out small differences. But properly done, this should give you a mirror-like high gloss.
Alan
Edited 9/17/2004 5:14 pm ET by Alan
Alan,
While the rottenstone method is the old accepted way of getting the gloss range up, there are far more superior ways to achieve the same results, with less labor!
We use a variety of automotive compounds by a company called Wizards. The is the Turbo Cut, which will level out scratches in the finish. To increase the gloss from this point we use Fianl Cut, which is fantastic, to say the least! To take it up the gloss to an even higher level, we will switch to Shine Master. If we want to get a water gloss, we will go through the Micro Mesh system and then use the above compounds. And for that factory finish, we use a Stuhr pnuematic rub out machine and 3M's system, combined with Shine master. We can achieve the rottenstone look in ten minutes with out the hand counted strokes and a sore back!
Pete
Pete,
Thanks for the education (I'm serious. I always like to learn.) I'm aware that there are materials and tools like the ones you mentioned, but I don't recall seeing them anywhere. Are they available for us hobbyists?
But (the ubiquitous 'but') I think I would still take my own advice. I already have everything I would need; as you point out, the materials and methods are tried and tested; for we non-pros time isn't as important, the labor is a labor of love; and perhaps most importantly, I already have a notion about how to use them.
For a first time finisher, I think I would stand by the advice I gave, for similar reasons. For one very important thing, the materials and the knowledge of how to use them are widely available.
With that in mind, is there a web site or someplace else I could learn more about the materials and tools you mentioned?
Once more, thanks for the information.
Alan
I don't know one professional finisher who uses pumice and rottenstone any longer. It's just too slow and to prone to misuse.
The automotive products are easier to use (with a little practise), quite a bit faster and generally, produce better results.
For info on what to use and how, get Jeff Jewitt's new book "Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing". You can get it at Amazon.Howie.........
Thanks Howie
I was wondering what book to buy on finishing next especially after my last project,
a 7' x 16' board room table that has a few "warts" in the lacquer finish.
silver
Edited 9/19/2004 2:47 pm ET by silver
Thanks Alan! for your advise. I just hope I can find all of the materials You mentioned.I will look for that book You talked about.
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