Replies

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Nov 24, 2002 12:56am | #1

   Get rid of the wax with mineral spirits or naptha, let dry, and rub the top again with the steel wool. The rubbing should be pretty quick - just enough to even the sheen.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   2002sheds | Nov 24, 2002 01:03am | #2

   Thanks for the response, Paul. I've tried wiping on mineral spirits, and steel wool. It seems to work at first. I'm wondering if I need to use a coarser steel wool than #0000? Maybe I'm buffing it all over again...

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Nov 24, 2002 01:12am | #3

   Use mineral spirits and a generous supply of clean rags - keep the surface wet and change the face of the rag frequently. This will get rid of the wax - you may be spreading it around a bit.

   After the mineral spirits dries/evaporates, use the steel wool - rotate it frequently to keep a "fresh" side to the surface. You should get back to a satin/semi-gloss pretty easily.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 24, 2002 02:01am | #4

   Did the tabletop have a consistant sheen on it before you applied the wax? How many coats of lacquer did you put on? Was the lacquer given adequate time to cure (not just dry) before you waxed? Did you use the Briwax that had toluene as the solvent? (It will say so on the can).

1. 
   Sancho | Nov 24, 2002 02:15am | #5

   Id clean off the wax with mineral spirits and scotchbrite and then respray the finish. Laquer will burn in meaning the new coat will melt into the old see if that straightens it out.

   At Darkworks cut to size made to burn......Putty isnt a option

2. 
   2002sheds | Nov 25, 2002 10:40am | #6

   Hi Howie,

   First, thank you for replying, I appreciate it. Five coats of lacquer were sprayed on (with a basic Campell Hausfield HVLP unit) a week before I rubbed it out using #0000 steel wool and "Wool lube". It was a pretty consistent satin, which is what my friend wanted. It was then that I made the mistake of applying the BriWax (with tuolene), and watched in horror as the lacquer melted and swirled into a mess as I started to take the excess BriWax off.

   I now know that the lacquer hadn't cured sufficiently, and that BriWax has a solvent that is "possibly not compatible with some lacquer systems".

   In my frenzy to pull up some of the wax, I have now added insult to injury by cutting through the lacquer and through the stain. Since I used a gel stain on this table, I already know all too well that additional stain rubbed over the top doesn't seem to adhere or soak in like a regular Minwax might, meaning stripping the top- at least I think I'll have to...

   My new qustion seems to be, what will be the best method to straighten this out? My friend has the table until after Thanksgiving, and they'll cover it with a tablecloth to hide the embarrassment (mine, not theirs). Then I get one more crack at this. I'm reading a lot about wiping varnishes. Am I better off trying that route on the top? Would it be compatible with lacquer? The wax didn't damage the legs and apron as visibly. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

   Thanks,

   Twosheds

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 25, 2002 06:44pm | #7

   It sounds like a nice table so I would recommend you forget about "fixing it" and instead strip off everything and start over. I can think of no shortcut if you really want it to look nice.

   First, nothing wrong with gel stain. Once it has fully cured, I would spray a 1# cut of blond, dewaxed shellac to seal it. Then, give it your 5-6 coats of lacquer. Be sure to let the lacquer fully cure. Just because it is "dry" doesn't mean it is cured. If you like the look of the 4/0 steel wool and lube, do that again. Be very careful about abrading through the surface. In fact, if you plan to do a lot of rubbing, put on a couple of additional coats of lacquer.

   Just stay away from the BriWax with toluene which is intended for restoration work, not new finishes. What probably happened is the steel wool removed the top layer of fully cured lacquer exposing as yet uncured lacquer below. The toluene than attacked the not fully cured lacquer.

   You might also want to get a copy of the December issue of Fine Woodworking. It may still be on the newstands, but if not, go to your library. It has an excellent article by Jeff Jewett on abrasives and rubbing out finishes.

   I don't think you should change finishes now. I like lacquer better for fine furniture than varnish and you already are familiar with the lacquer. Stay with what you know. Learn a new finishing technique of some other project where you have the chance to practice it.

   Take the time to do it right now that you have the time. Good finishing should not be rushed.

1. 
   nonexxx | Nov 25, 2002 07:49pm | #8

   I think the problem is that Briwax contains toluene. This solvent has damaged the lacquer. I suggest that you rub out the surface with steel wool and minwax or johnsons paste wax thinned with mineral sprits.

2. 
   2002sheds | Nov 26, 2002 09:34am | #9

   Thanks, Howie, that's what I'll do. It's not that I have a ton of experience with lacquer, but it was beautiful before I made the series of mistakes.

   I really appreciate the advice. This has been a learning experience, to say the least. Having this resource (Knots) and in particular your knowlege will at least prevent me from additional time spent correcting boneheaded moves. Thanks again.

   Twosheds