Replies

1. 
   TomT226 | Feb 04, 2004 02:31pm | #1

   Might want to try a CAB, or water based lacquer. I use a lot of Oxford PSL, made by Target. These are much tougher and water resistant than nirto lacquer.

   Check out http://www.homesteadfinishing.com and look at their products.

   Got any questions, ask Jeff Jewitt on his forum.

2. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Feb 04, 2004 10:19pm | #2

   You could try Enduro from Compliant Spray Systems, they have WB poly & lacquers which lay down nicely & quick dry time.   Low odor as well.

   
   

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   Edited 2/4/2004 2:24:28 PM ET by craig

3. 
   CharlieP | Feb 05, 2004 12:32am | #3

   There are a lot of specialized lacquers, but plain old Nitrocellulose Lacquer seems pretty generic, so I just use the cheap stuff from the big box.  I pay about $17 per gallon.  For water base, precatalyzed, etc.  brand seems to matter. 

   ________________________
   Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texas
   http://www.plesums.com/wood

1. 
   BHale | Feb 05, 2004 01:43am | #4

   Thanks for your input!

   As i said, it's been awhile since i've done much woodworking and at the time waterbased finishes were quite new. My experience at the time was that they caused significant grain raising and inconsistent layers; it didn't flow out well. Has this changed or was i doing something wrong?

   Nitro Lacquer is what i remember spraying lots of as a cabinet maker, 3-4 gallons(before thinning) in one day and i like the results i got. That was when i got my HVLP setup and did some at home and it worked just as good. Is nitro "the" lacquer type for furniture or are others a better option?

   Brian :)

   Edited 2/4/2004 5:44:36 PM ET by Brian_Hale

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Feb 05, 2004 02:55am | #5

   My personal preference is in any situation that water can be on the finished product for any period of time, use polyurethane. 

2. 
   TomT226 | Feb 05, 2004 02:35pm | #9

   The Oxford PSL has 100% burn-in between coats. Acts just like nitro in the application and lay out. In fact, I don't change the settings on my guns when I use either one.

   The PSL will have to be tinted to resemble nitro if you like that warm color on light woods. Iusually use 5-6 drops of Trans-Tint amber per gallon.

4. 
   PlaneWood | Feb 05, 2004 03:05am | #6

   For the table top, i'd use poly.  Lacquer will turn white if it gets wet.  Doesn't like hot things on it either.

   I did my kitchen table 15 years ago with poly and it still looks like new.  Wipe on the first two coats then spray the last.  Buff with 0000 steel wool and then buff with a power buffer after setting 3 or 4 days.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   CharlieP | Feb 05, 2004 07:33am | #8

   My experience has been the opposite.  I used poly on a stained oak kitchen table years ago, and my son and his friends managed to chip significant pieces out of the finish over the growing up years.  Never did figure out how they did it, but there are half a dozen dings where the poly is gone. 

   When I started using lacquer, I tested it with booze, wine, ice, and hot water, soaking for extended periods (12-24 hours) with no bad effect.  No white ring like I knew from oil or shellac, so now I use ordinary Nitrocellulose Lacquer for most of my projects. 

   I looked into precatalyzed lacquer seeking a more durable finish, but discussion on the web indicated that I would probably lose more in repairability than I gained in durability.  So I am still using ordinary NC Lacquer. 

   You are right that the NC lacquer doesn't like heat - I have tried it on wooden trivets, and been dissatisfied.  But I haven't found any gloss finish that works well under that intense heat.  Ordinary hot serving dishes have not been a problem on a NC lacquer tabletop.________________________Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood

1. 
   PlaneWood | Feb 05, 2004 06:15pm | #10

   Charlie -

   I've always used Deft brand Poly and never had any problems with it chipping.  I've done various type of tops with it.  I hand rub the first couple of coats to ensure better bonding.  When I redid the kitchen table I sanded it down to bare wood and restained.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

1. 
   CharlieP | Feb 05, 2004 07:25pm | #11

   Mike, I appreciate the reassurance.  I have no idea what poly I used 20 years ago, or whenever it was that I did that table.  Probably the same stuff I used on floors and woodwork during that period.

   My table does need refinishing, and I will probably sand it down to bare wood when I redo it.  So now I have the dilemma of NC Lacquer, which is the primary finish I use on bookcases, entertainment centers, cocktail tables, bedroom furniture, etc.,  and the good poly that you recommend. 

   Or maybe I will just procrastinate another 5 or 10 years....________________________Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood

1. 
   PlaneWood | Feb 05, 2004 08:05pm | #12

   Procrastination is a lot more fun!  Drives the spouses crazy too!

   I use Deft brand lacquer (Deft Clear Wood Finish) on most every thing else.  It's says it's a brushing lacquer but I have always sprayed it using a regular compressor type gun.   The only reason it's called a brushing lacquer is it has retarder and flattening agents in it.  It also has mineral soaps added to give it a warm feel.  It's fairly fool proof which is really beneficial for me!  It cures to a fairly hard finish.  Never have had any problems with it cracking.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

   Edited 2/5/2004 12:13:59 PM ET by PlaneWood

2. 
   BHale | Feb 06, 2004 01:47am | #13

   I've used poly several times in the past and it is indeed a Very durable finish that would work well on a dining table, however the chairs I built years ago are finished in nitro lacquer so the table will be also.

   I've been searching the web and found some types of lacquer I’m not too familiar with and perhaps you folks could set me straight.....

   What’s the difference between Self-Sealing and Pre-Catalyzed (acrylic?) lacquer? Is one more durable? Are they applied differently? Do they dry as fast as the nitro I’m used to?

   How does High Solids Concentrate lacquer compare to "standard" lacquer? Does it need to be thinned more? Fewer coats required?

   I'm aware lacquer doesn't withstand heat well, for instance from a hot pot, but I’ve not experienced any problems with water marks or fogging of the finish. Am I just lucky?

    

   Thanks for your help!!

   Brian :)

      The significant problems we encounter cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them.

5. 
   art | Feb 05, 2004 04:31am | #7

   I've had good results with M. L. Campbell's Magnamax. It's a pre-cat lacquer available in gallons and rubs out nicely.  Art

6. 
   Dave10 | Feb 06, 2004 06:40am | #14

   Brian,

   I've used Sherwin-Williams CAB-acrylic lacquer for about fifteen years

   and, more recently (five years), pre- and post catalyzed products by

   various manufactures.The CAB-acrylic product has been the easiest to use - very forgiving (plus it does not yellow - important for light finishes). Our company has a number of dining - and conference tables

   that have been in service for ten to twelve years with no problems,

   other the usual wear and tear, that have been finished with CAB. Just be

   sure to lay down a coat of vinyl sealer first.

   Sherwin-Williams does sell both products in gallon quantities.