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Hi,
I’ve been doing some furniture lately with, as you can tell from the title, laminate surfaces with wood trim. It has been off white laminate with cherry trim. While it has turned out “ok”, I feel there has got to be a better way.
So far I think there are two ways to go. One- Mill the trim for as perfect a fit as possible, so there is as little wood proud of the laminate as I can do. Then sand/ scape it down to flush. Works “ok” but there are always scrapes on the laminate or flush is not really flush but just pretty good.
Two- Mill the trim so it stands proud and rout it down to “flush”. In my experience this leads to burned spots ( esp. with cherry) or tear out which is almost unavoidable on 16′ of trim for a 2’x 6′ table top.
Is there something I’m missing here?
Thanks, Tom
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Replies
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Thomas,
I have used this method: attach the trim so it is just slightly proud of the surface. Apply a layer of masking tape to the surface next to the trim. With a sharp block plane at a fine setting, then a scraper, then fine sandpaper and a sanding block, reduce the thichness so it's flush with the surface. It helps if you can wrap the fingers of your right hand around the plane, scraper and sanding block so your fingers, acting as a fence, touch the edge of the wood beneath the tool, preventing the tool from extending over and touching the laminate. Also, even if you get it perfect, it won't stay that way when the weather (humidity) changes; even strips as narrow as edge trim will move slightly. GP
*Thanks GP, This is what I feared! Lot's of careful hand work to get it right.That's what I've been doing. At least next time I'll know to expect it in pricing a piece or steer the client away from it. Takes longer to make than a solid wood tabletop!Regards, Tom
*Leaving edge trim slightly high, then using a pattern straight bit with bearing to trim flush to the top has always worked well for me. By "high", though, I mean only a slight amount perhaps 1/32nd inch or less. This is so little to route off that if you are getting burning then your bit is dull or you are moving to slow. Tear out is possible, but a little experience watching the grain direction and you can anticipate where it might happen. In those areas I'll reverse my cut, or take short passes starting at the end of the dangerous area and stepping back toward me.But... It takes a good sharp router bit or you'll still have to sand. I've also seen some bits that don't cut exactly flush to where the bearing rides. You don't want one of those. I'll often clamp on an extra support board for the router, to reduce the likelyhood of tipping on the narrow edge. I actually made a broad L-shaped shelf just for this purpose on one project. But if your edge lengths vary, such a dedicated support won't work. You need to clamp it in place and you can only get clamps over the ends.Of course figuring out how to do it with a plane is worth your while. Any excuse to improve your hand skills is worth using.Dave
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