I’m doing some cabinets and built-ins using 3/4” mahogany laminboard. Multiplies(plywood was not available). I haven’t used laminboard before to such an extent and consequently don’t know if my problems are generic to laminboard or it’s just bad quality. It doesn’t like to stay flat, particularly after making 1/8” dados running lengthwise (parallel) with the core. I’ve also had multiple instances with the cross-plies separating from the dado edges. The cores, 1/2” x 1 7/8” run lengthwise, two cross-plies each side are 3/32”, topped with the face plies (only one side is ‘good’). My humidity has been in the high 30’s to mid 40’s.
Are my problems generic to laminboard or do I have bad quality? If the latter, what do I look for in the future to foretell the quality.
Comments and experience appreciated. Thanks
Craig
Replies
Sorry, I've never heard of it... who makes this product? and is it designed as a substitute for plywood?
Sounds like what I would call lumber core ply.
http://www.veneernet.com/panel.html
Second row right.
If laminboard is a type of plywood, he's got got some seriously bad plywood....
http://www.europlywood.org/plywood.htm
The only laminboard I have ever seen was drawer side material made with 3 layers of Lauan with the grain all runnung in the same direction. It was very stable.
I agree that what you have is lumber core plywood, and is pretty unsuitable for your use. Try Baltic (Finnish, Russian) birch ply or something similar.
Michael R.
I don't think lumber core in general is bad for cabinets. Cabinetry is the application I usually see lumber core recommended for. I do agree with JackPlane that this batch of plywood is clearly bogus. And I agree with you that baltic birch ply is good for cabinets.
With great mental agility I leapt to the conclusion that he was making drawer sides (1/8" dadoes near the edge). Lumber core isn't the best choice for drawer sides.
You're right that it is fine for a lot of other uses. I run into it frequently on older furniture (pre-mdf) and it holds up fine for case sides and tops. The lack of voids and the crossbanding give a smooth, stable surface. Plus the natural edge reduces the need for edgebanding.
Mea culpa (but not maxima)
Michael R.
>> With great mental agility I leapt to the conclusion ...
You're not alone, good buddy. :o) I assumed he was talking about case work, so I explained to myself that those must be 1/8" _deep_ dados. It wouldn't ever occur to me to use 3/4" anything for drawer sides, but if I did, lumber core wouldn't be my first choice, either.
It is lumber core or laminboard depending on what part of the world you’re from. Actually here in Mexico it’s called liston. And if I could get Baltic or Finnish ply I would be one happy puppy. With the exception of pine plywood from here or Chile, you have to go with laminboard on anything over 1/2”.
I’m using it for casework. Drawer sides are always solid wood for me. I think it’s a bad batch—too bad; 22 sheets at $60 US a pop for each. I found some large 3/4” mahogany laminboard in my shop that I used four years in a much higher humidity climate. It has only a slight cure after being stacked against the wall. I note the core wood is slightly harder. I’ve used also 3/4” maple and oak laminbooard (imported from the US). They curl slightly, but not to the extent that my problems are now.
Thanks everyone for your comments.
Craig
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