Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Aug 02, 2003 03:38am | #1

   Put your finish on the insides of the drawer parts before you assemble them.   If you do it beforehand, the application -- be it by brush or sprayer -- is much easier.   Also, if you find you need to rub out the finish, or even sand it off entirely and start again, it is easy.   I use dovetails at the corners and dados for the bottom, and can easily avoid putting much finish on the real glue surfaces.

1. 
   jpparadis | Aug 02, 2003 06:40pm | #2

   Thanks, but too late!  Maybe next time.

   Jim

1. 
   LarryPile | Aug 03, 2003 01:03am | #3

   I know this isn't what you asked..but I've had excellent luck with brushed-on super blonde shellac....no smell, easy to use, smooth finish, etc.

   It seems like EVERY time I've tried to spray the inside of a box, if every thing doesn't go down WET, I get overspray that needs to be dealt with.

   I spray a lot...but still brush my drawers..just works better.

   Good luck.

   L~

2. 
   DougF | Aug 06, 2003 12:05am | #4

   Jim,

   I usually make all of my drawers with poplar and ply bottom to match the hardwood in the piece.  I spray fully assembled.   One of the post mentioned problems from overspay which can be a problem due to the angles and relative confined spaces.  Overspray can be easily overcome by retarding the solvent's flash-off.  I personally use Deft, and lately I have been thinning it with MEK.  The MEK gives the surface a fast set and Deft, being a brushing lacquer, has more than the usual retarders in it already that allow the lacquer to level.  The MEK keeps it from sagging.   I have not experienced any overspray problems using these products.  I used to have these problems with straight nitro lacquer but that too was solved by adding retarder.

   Doug

1. 
   TomT226 | Aug 06, 2003 01:58pm | #5

   What percentage of MEK to Deft do you use?

   What temp conditions do you spray in?

1. 
   DougF | Aug 06, 2003 04:36pm | #6

   Tom,

   I've just started using MEK after reading Kevin's many posts on the subject so please don't take my responses as the "voice of experience."  The amount I cut depends on whether I'm spraying vertical or horizontal surfaces and if I'm spraying inside or outside the shop.  I've got a pretty climate controlled shop so usually it is mid 70's and 25 - 40% humidity.  I have been thinning with MEK about 10% of the total volume.  Since Deft has a lot of reducers already in it, excessive flash-off has not been a problem but if you are using nitro lacquer then you will want to add the acetate to increase the leveling of the lacquer while the MEK creates the surface tension to reduce sag and runs.  Kevin has suggested you can thin up to 20% of the volume with a 50/50 combination of MEK and acetate or one-third each of lacquer thinner, MEK and acetate.  Obviously you can adjust any of these ratios to fit your conditions.  You might do a search on his posts regarding lacquer application.

   Many times I will open the shop doors and set up a spray table at the opening in order to disperse fumes and over-spray and I increase retarders due to the ambient temperature - I'm in Texas - as well as the heat produced by the HVLP turbine.  Those factors combine to increase the rate of flash-off and over-spray.

   I switched to Deft lacquer 4 or 5 years ago since I was having trouble getting consistent results with nitro lacquers.  Since I have started using Kevin's suggestions I have found I can achieve the same level of control with nitro that I get with Deft.  However, Deft is an acrylic lacquer and yellows less so I tend to favor it more unless I am covering areas not readily seen such as drawers sides, inside cabinets and the like.  I recently posted an article on lacquers that I found helpful: http://www.alan.net/prgfeat/rrlacquer.pdf

   Hopes this helps.

   Doug

1. 
   TomT226 | Aug 06, 2003 07:26pm | #7

   Doug,

   Thanks for the info. I'm in Texas too.

   I've been using Deft for about 12 years, and just the last year (8-10 gallons) I've noticed a change in the flow out characteristics have changed. This is with the same set-up I've used all the time. Seems I get orange peel whenever I don't thin, reguardless of the temp. I used to spray it unthinned and get great results. Same gun, same settings. Started thinning 10% for coats, then went to a 50-50 for a flash coat that took out any orange peel.

   I use conventional and a HVLP conversion gun.

   In the time you've used Deft, have you noticed any differences?

1. 
   Kevin | Aug 06, 2003 08:10pm | #8

   Tom,

   If you read that article that Doug posted, you'll notice near the end of it that the author discusses how lacquer manufactorers, in response to EPA regulations, are using less solvents so that they can package the lacquer in compliance with regs. This is compounded by certain solvents which used to be very widely used in lacquers not being used as much or at all due to those same regs. My bet is that this explains the change that you've noticed in the Deft lacquer.

   Regards,

   Kevin

2. 
   DougF | Aug 06, 2003 08:14pm | #9

   Tom,

   I did notice that on this batch of work but attributed it to other factors.  I was applying Deft over a bad application of a wipe-on poly and then I sprayed nitro and was really unhappy with those results.  Sanded again and re-shot the Deft.  After all of those false starts I just misted it with thinner and thought nothing more about it.  I also find that when it is flashing hot, I have to be careful of pressure and tip distance but the leveling characteristics of ususally compensate.

   I'll query Deft tech support and see it they have something to add on the issue.

   Doug