Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Jan 16, 2003 09:53am | #1

   You might find some useful ideas in this thread.

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages/?msg=8915.1

   And could I beg you to post in black? Your message showed up on my browser as olive on gray, not a high contrast combination.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/16/2003 1:54:48 AM ET by Uncle Dunc

1. 
   BrianMcG | Jan 17, 2003 05:11am | #6

   Hi Uncle Dunc! Sorry about the eye strain...felt the need to be a bit different I guess. Black it is. Thank you very much for the point in the right direction. Much to learn but loving almost every moment of it. May go with pinned half laps or a splined miter..built the miter jig, might as well use it! Thanks again, Brian

2. 
   jgaiennie | Jan 16, 2003 03:17pm | #2

   Brian,

   Lots of mirrors and the like weigh that and much, much more and are hung in all sorts of frames.  In my opinion, your glass is not so unusually heavy.  Just be smart and logical and you'll be fine.  Be cautious of the weakest link.  Splined mitered corners would work with the grain in the spine running across the miter.  Mortise and tennon would certainly be adequate.  And then there's always backing up the joint with something additional like a metal reinforcement.

   jdg

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/16/2003 7:23:24 AM ET by jdg

1. 
   BrianMcG | Jan 17, 2003 05:17am | #7

   Hi JDG, Thanks very much for the reply! Pretty new to woodworking with much to learn, but loving almost every minute of it. I think I have it narrowed down to a splined miter or mortise and tenon..I'll post a picture when done, providing it turns out ok that is!! Thanks again, Brian

3. 
   b1gcountry | Jan 16, 2003 06:32pm | #3

   I've framed a smaller window with only cope and stick joinery, so your tenons will definitely work. If you are hanging the window from the ceiling, be mindful of how you attatch it, as that will probably be weaker than your joinery.

   Tom

1. 
   tailsorpins | Jan 16, 2003 10:32pm | #4

   I used a cross-pinned mortise & tenon frame to hold a 36" x 42" stained glass window in 1995, likewise suspended inside a picture window.  The antique glass panel weighs 65# installed in the 2" x 3" Alder frame and it's holding up well.  It lacks 1/2" filling the opening side to side and 1" top to bottom (by design), and I modified two straps, rabbetting them flush along the sides, extending 3/4" above the top of the frame, where I sent a #10 drywall screw sideways into the main window frame, thus suspending the assembly.  When I need to clean the main window, and the back side of the stained glass (there's approx 1/2" free space between them), it swings out at the bottom and I prop it up with a stick.  The splash of color, especially the deep reds, really brightens my master bath, as it's a South exposure!

   Good Luck,

   John in middle Tennessee

1. 
   BrianMcG | Jan 17, 2003 05:34am | #9

   Hi John! I read your reply to Big Country with interest but, being pretty new to woodworking, I didn't understand part of it. What does "it lacks 1/2" filling the opening side to side and 1" top to bottom" mean? I'm guessing it has something to do with a rabbit or groove to support the art. HMMMMM.... I have much to learn but am enjoying doing it! Thanks, Brian

1. 
   tailsorpins | Jan 17, 2003 09:44pm | #11

   Brian;

   I didn't want the hanging stained-glass panel to bump the window behind, yet I wanted it to be somewhat easy to get between them for cleaning.  Thus I sized it 1/2" narrower than the casement inside dimension, and 1" shorter.  A 6" long flush strap along the side of the frame extends perhaps 1/2" above the frame with a single hole (at each top corner), through which I laterally installed a heavy drywall screw into the casement as a suspension pivot pin.  The whole thing is painted white to match the woodwork.  In this way, I have the thermal benefits of a large double glazed window and the beauty of the stained glass.  Perhaps I can post a picture if it's not clearer.

   John in middle Tennessee   

1. 
   BrianMcG | Jan 22, 2003 07:53am | #12

   Hi John, Thanks for your reply. I understand now what you mean. As far as posting a pic, I think it would be great to see it..please do! Thanks again, Brian

2. 
   tailsorpins | Jan 22, 2003 08:07am | #13

   I would post a pic, but I'm clueless how these folks are including them in their replies.  Perhaps I'll get time to study up on it.  Lots of projects in the shop and hardly a spare moment.  Good Luck,

   John in middle Tennessee

2. 
   BrianMcG | Jan 17, 2003 05:21am | #8

   Hi Big Country, Good point. Hadn't really thought about that end of it. I am planning to hang it in a large picture window and I believe (not a carpenter) that some sort of stud or joist frames the window and should support it. Thanks for the reply! Brian

4. 
   NormInFujino | Jan 17, 2003 01:14am | #5

   For longevity, I'd go with mortise and tenon (see below), but you might also consider a half-lap joint, which would be easier to construct. Glue it well and use screws from behind for extra support.

   This is a frame with pegged through tenons; the frame doesn't have to support much weight, but I did it for the design:

   View Image

   ". . .and only the stump or fishy part of him remained."

   Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township

1. 
   BrianMcG | Jan 17, 2003 05:41am | #10

   Hi Norm, I appreciate your reply. Pretty sure Ive got it narrowed down to a pinned mortise and tenon, a splined miter or a pinned half lap. It will be seen from both sides so I'm avoiding screws.

   Your frame is beautiful and compliments the artwork...great job!

   Thanks again, Brian