Replies

1. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 02, 2005 06:21am | #1

   The easiest and cheapest way is to make a jig out of plywood and your circular saw to the length that you need.  Rip a 3" long piece nice and straight, and attach it to your jig piece.  Running the circ. saw with fence along the newly cut piece,  you'll cut your jig to exactly the distance from the blade to the edge of the fence.  Align this newly cut jig on the line you wish to cut on the plywood sheet.  Make sure you cut with the good side down, as tear out will be minimalized on bottom side.

   Many tool companies also make these jigs ready made out of aluminum, or you can get a plunge saw from festool for some more $$$.

   Jeff

2. 
   notDusty | Dec 02, 2005 08:50am | #2

      To net a 82" cut from a 96" panel set your fence to 14" to the outside of the blade and with some form of support simply crosscut it . A sled will also work .If you don't want to use the factory edge then rout a 1/16th or so off first .

                         good  luck             dusty

    

1. 
   allisgood | Dec 02, 2005 04:45pm | #4

   This is the way I have done it in the past, that is, cut the smaller end to the right size to leave me with the larger piece at its correct size. I just don't like gauging from the waste end of the board. Maybe I should just get over it and get used to it. Thanks

3. 
   BG | Dec 02, 2005 04:38pm | #3

   allisgood,
   I have done it the two different ways already suggested. The issue becomes support for stock extending beyond the crosscut sled. I've never done it, but there is an idea out there for building a left side support using the end of your fence rail. Basically, you fit a piece of stock in the end of the rail(in front, make it adjustable)and tenon that into a vertical piece that goes to the ground. On top of the vertical piece is attached another piece of wood that runs parallel with the TS and has a 'T' base on the other end. (hope this it not too confusing). The nice part is it can be taken apart and stored while not needed...

1. 
   allisgood | Dec 02, 2005 04:47pm | #5

   I like the sound of this. I may spend some time today working on this one, thanks.

1. 
   davidwood | Dec 03, 2005 04:36am | #6

   Add this smart base and you have a "system"

   http://eurekazone.com/products/detail/smartbase.html

    

   I cut 1/4" ply with no chips and with a framing blade.

   You can use the smart base without the ez smart system.

   good luck

   david 

    

    

1. 
   ButchersWood | Dec 12, 2005 08:00pm | #8

   I have both the guide and the smart table - works great. I know Dino would give me grief but for most stuff I cut 1/4" greater than I need and finish on the TS (really helps to make sure my pieces square up). Of course you wouldn't do that on the TS with 88". Of course the smart table works with a shopmade jig as described above as well.RogerI'd rather be making cabinets and friends....

   Edited 12/12/2005 12:09 pm by ButchersWood

4. 
   user-63018 | Dec 04, 2005 06:44am | #7

   cut it a little over length with a circular saw and clamp a straight edge across and make the finish cut with your router, that is the way I have done it many times

5. 
   highfigh | Dec 17, 2005 08:10pm | #9

   It sounds like you didn't put your assembly table behind the TS. If they're both the same height, you could move the assembly table so it could act as an outfeed table. I use saw horses on the infeed and outfeed sides to cut it to width. They work great and I rarely need to cut the piece oversize and recut to clean up the edge. For the end cut on a piece this long and narrow, I would clamp a guide across it and cut with a circular saw or jig saw, then clean it up with a router and straight bit (no spiral up or downcut here- it would chip the edge on one surface).

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."