To Gary Rogowski,
I submitted this question first on Feb. 10 and have not received a reply. I think it went into space somewhere. I am starting a dining table with a large solid cherry top. Finished size will be 96 by 46 inches, starting with 6/4 stock and finishing out at least 1+ inches thick.
What would you recommend for a flattening strategy? I want to avoid heavy sanding because of the ripples which it produces. But hand planing a large surface poses difficulties. I have some thoughts on a strategy but I would like to hear yours.
Thanks and best regards, Tom.
Replies
If you have an online subscription, this video by Andy Rae shows a portable power planer technique for flattening wide boards:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/subscription/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=30212
And this one by Philip Lowe discusses handplane-flattening (which you can do after rough planing with the power planer):
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=29716
-Steve
Edited 2/19/2008 9:39 pm ET by saschafer
Steve,
Thanks for your reply and the links. I have seen those and they are helpful. My real issue is with the size. The top will be 96 by 46 inches, and I can't visualize how I can plane it diagonally to get the initial flatness. I have quite a bit of experience with smaller panels, say 20 by 40 inches, used in my blanket chests. I think I will go back and re-examine the two links you provided.I just reviewed both videos and neither one address the issue of a board which exceeds your reach when planing. I think the answer may lie in flattening the top in two sections prior to final glue up.thanks, Tom.
Edited 2/19/2008 11:31 pm ET by Tom77
I suggest that you enlist the services of Yao Ming. ;-)
-Steve
Or maybe Sasquatch.
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