I’m looking for ideas/feedback/tips for a DIY table saw outfeed table in a small shop. I’m thinking folding is the way to go. I could buy one, but I’d rather make it (for lots of reasons).
April Wilkerson has one on her site (pic attached), I kind of like the design and simplicity. But I’m curious how people here who have done this have designed and built theirs, how they would do it again if they had it to do over, whether they regret doing it in the first place, etc.
Thanks —
Neal
Replies
Currently I have my saw sitting so my workbench is my outfeed table. Before that I had one that was attached with mag switches. It was very easy on/easy off. Whatever you decide here are a few things I learned about outfeed tables.
Smoother is better. The easier it is to slide large pieces or sheet goods the less likely to burn or force the wood askew.
Don't forget about the miter tracks. They don't need to be as snug as the track on the saw, and they don't have to go all the way.
Some way to make fine adjustments after mounting would be nice. That allows for some fine tuning to make sure you get a bump up or drop off at the transition point.
Good luck.
I have this saw, and made a folding outfield table that's similar to the design you show. I used two Hafele Tikla brackets as the support. This bracket is nice -- there's no clip to find to release. You just pull outwards. The bracket mounts to a vertical surface, so I made a secondary metal bracket from steel channel (around 4" x 2" profile - beefy) and bolted that bracket to the metal lip of the saw stop table. The Hafele bracket then bolts to the large vertical surface of the secondary bracket.
One awkward point is that the folded outfeed table will bump against the dust collection. April's design uses a little balcony to kick the table out. Mine just hangs down and is stopped by the wheel bracket on the rolling table.
My table was a torsion box, about 2" thick, faced with 3/8 ply. I put a secondary rail in on the left side (left, as you're operating the saw) that slides out (leftward) to support wide pieces of ply or whatever. That's pretty useful.
Last point, perhaps most important from your own POV: Don't overbuild the table, because you'll have to push it around. The concept of the integral table is nice, because it's structurally bound to the saw. Move the saw, the outfeed is still set up just fine. This is very handy. I move my saw all the time.
I would probably build this again. Now that Sawstop makes one, though -- that option is pretty tempting.
My main workbench is also my outfeed table.
My current one is about to be replaced (I'm rearranging and refining the whole workshop a bit over the next few weeks). But, the new one will be kinda sorta similar in construction and size.
on my current one, I did an MDF torsion box top. It has pine edging that sits 1/8" proud and a piece of tempered hardboard sits loosely inside (so it's easy to replace when it gets all funky and cut up). I built the legs out of plywood, laminated in a couple places and just a 90 deg butt joint in others. I have a leg vise opposite the table saw. I've kind of built a hodge podge of storage underneath, trying to keep many of my always used tools close at hand.
The new one will be similar, but I've included a big block (laminated BB Ply) as a solid foundation for dog holes, reaching back from the leg vise. I'll also be configuring the drawers, plane, saw and mallet storage a little differently.
I use sawhorses, 2x material and plywood for temporary tables, assembly, finishing, etc in other areas of my small-ish shop. But for most of my hand tool and fiddly work, I am at my outfeed table bench.
As many times in a day as I hit the table saw, putting an outfeed table up and down all the time would drive me crazy.
I don't have an outfeed table, but the saw is huge so it is less of an issue.
I would like one, but the topography of my shop prohibits.
When I have some spare cash I plan to remove a supporting post and then I will merge the saw outfeed and assembly table area. I have a very large assembly table which is incredibly useful as a work area, but cannot combine both the saw and table as things are. Doing so would reduce the total area occupied by both items and would make my work more efficient.
So although I don't do it, I'm in the outfeed table = workbench brigade.
FWIIW, try if you can to have the ability to machine a full sheet on your saw - means 1.2m clear space on at least one side of the blade (preferably both) and 2.4m front and back of the blade. This is hard to achieve in a small shop, but if you can move the saw it may be doable, especially with garages. this may affect your choice of outfeed table. Folding tables permit you to free up space or may make it easier to move the whole kaboodle enough to make machining larger stock easier.
I'm not real big on folding down tables. Unless space really demands it, I wouldn't go that route. Moving things on wheels is vital, but not folding.
My last outfeed table was fixed. My saw was on a mobile base, but only got repositioned for the rare odd-sized cut.
When I got my new saw, I got rid of the old outfeed table. It was the wrong height, and was pretty crappy anyway. My new outfeed table is a sheet of plywood, 3x4, on top of my old saw. I removed the wings, cut down the rails, and left the dado blade in it full time. I always disliked switching blades.
Oh, I also keep a sheet of that thin white coated Masonite crap that covers both the tablesaw and outfeed table that I use for glueups and assembly. It's light enough to slide off when I use the saw.
An alternative approach is to use portable or mobile support stands of the kind that have a roller, captive ball bearings or a slippery slider on top. They do need to be substantial, preferably the type with either a very large footprint and/or a heavy cast iron base.
Their advantages are that they can be:
* put out of the way when you don't need them;
* configured in different locations to support various work pieces, e.g used in front and to the side of the saw as well as behind it;
* adjusted in their height and orientation of the roller, ball bearing or slider top.
Although my TS will take a dedicated outfeed table, I've never bought one as the work support stands are more than adequate for the above reasons.
In addition these stands are very useful as work supports in conjunction with other machines, such as the router table and drill press; and with various benches. I use them outside with a workmate gripping a batten with a large piece of plywood on top, for example. Also at the end or front of the shed workbench & the assembly bench.
There's a lot to be said for a universal machine (think router) and a lot to be said for a universal work support gubbins too. Single task things tend to take up a lot of room for not so much utility, always a prime concern in a very small workshop.
Lataxe
I have a couple of those that are very useful for a variety of things. They are great for use with the miter saw if I'm cutting 14 or 16 foot moulding. But they just never work as well for boards that are moving, such as going through a table saw. They too frequently get caught and tilt or tip over. But they really are necessary accessories for a lot of things.
I have been adding 24" outfeed tables with HDO on my different saws for years by just using large steel shelf brackets bolted to the saw cabinet. At home thats all I have on my unisaw and it works fine for most work up to 8 feet.
At work where I might cut longer material I have one 24" outfeed between my Sawstops and they outfeed onto eachother. Still the same steel brackets bolted on with HDO.
Small shop here as well. I would go with a matched height rolling outfeed table with locking casters instead of a fold out one. You’ll get much more shop versatility out of it plus extra storage space. Couldn’t help but notice that April’s design lacked miter slots.
Space is a limitation, So my outfeed table is my major assembly table. I had some 2x4's purchased a couple years ago, when wood was better and cheaper. I used the 2x4's as the frame. I placed a plywood shelf about 12" from the floor. It helps stabilize the frame. I used 2 pieces of 3/4 in plywood. Box store cabinet grade. cut to 6' x 4' I glued and screwed the two pieces making it about 1.5" thick. I used my track saw to cut and saw smoothing the edges. For a surface I used Masonite, a very few screws to hold the Masonite down. This so I can replace it as the surface wears, or glue or whatever should build up. I cut two grooves with router to match the grooves in the table saw. Finished height is exactly the height of the saw's table.
I added a couple of retractable work table wheels, to move around if need be. Now planning on installing a wood worker vise, and maybe a drawer or two.
Oh yeah, I didn't like the rounded corners of the 2x4's so I ran the visible edges of the 2x4's through my joiner before assembly.
FYI my other workbench's in the shop all have the same height as the outfeed table. If I move the outfeed table I can have a Very large assembly table.
At one point I had an out feed rigged that I could break down....kind of half step away from foldable. I’m not sure how small your shop is, but I agree with John’s advice regarding moveable vs foldable. Once I built a “real” outfeed table (from a FWW article, John White’s ultimate outfeed, with some minor variations) I wished I had done it sooner. For me, for now, it doubles as assembly/finishing table (although I am planning a more dedicated/tricked out assembly table...someday). It added a material amount of storage and organization that has made me more efficient and made shoptime a bit more fun - it has 4 big drawers with one being for blades, others for accessories, big sled storage, convenient fence storage, clamp rack, shelves for jigs, etc - all that stuff has to go somewhere. I embellished a bit and used “real” adjustable height feet vs lag bolts as feet and attached a set of brackets for Rocklers workbench castors - allowing me to share the same castors as I use for my workbench so I can move either as needed. Even a smaller version, e.g closer to a rolling cabinet, would offer many similar advantages and not tie up your workbench and require you clear it off whenever you need outfeed support.
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