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Replies
Your preference. Very few reasons not to. Just use a good primer first and follow mfgrs directions. Latex (mostly acrylic these days) are easier to work with.
Are there some latex paints that work better with an hvlp sprayer than others? Is there a formulation that I should look for?
I've done a few sets of cabinets using Ben Moore's Advance paint, in semi gloss. Rather than a waterborne acrylic, it's a waterborne alkyd paint. Brushed on, it levels out as if it were sprayed, and dries much harder th an acrylic latex paints.
Other manufacturers have equivalents in their lines, but I haven't tried them.
I use only acrylic latex Benjamin Moore or Sherman Williams. I spray undiluted using an Apollo eco 4 and get beautiful results that are close enough to factory finishes that my clients are happy.
Thanks for the HVLP recommendation.
Paint on wood...yuck!
I recently built our kitchen cabinets and used latex paint. What I learned when spraying: 1) Use a good hvlp machine with some power with the correct needle and orifice for latex paint; 2) thin the paint with distilled water to a 30 second flow through a viscosity cup; 3) add a couple of ounces of Floetrol to each batch to get a nice even coat; 4) look at a book to learn about the correct spray technique; 5) use a paint filter when pouring the paint into your sprayer. 6) Use a good primer. Practice a little, it is not that hard.
It takes a while for the latex paint to set up and harden. It will dry pretty fast to the touch but it can take several weeks for it to cure into a really durable finish.
Thanks. The info on letting it cure was very helpful.
I would use an oil based paint on shelves. Even after weeks of curing, books and heavy objects tend to stick or grab onto latex paint.
Agree with most of what's said. I prefer BIN shellac based primer.
I also prefer Target Coatings pigmented lacquer. Add the crosslinker for added durability.
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