I’m thinking of building a solid wood (stave) snare drum for my son and need some recommendations for a lathe. The drum would be 14″ o.d. by 8″ tall and a 1/2″ thick shell. The inside needs to be just as smooth as the outside for good resonance. I also want to learn to turn bowls.
Any recommendations for a lathe?
Any recommendations for mounting the rough shell to a face plate? And for tooling set up for the inside of the shell.
Thanks!
Norse
Replies
I use on older metal lathe for large turnings,for thier size & features they can be found for resonable prices( if your willing to deal with the size & weight) I just sold my Lodge & Shipley metal lathe (20" dia swing, 5' between centers 4500 lbs) with tooling & single phase motor for $1500.00 due to I bought a larger lathe (24" swing/32"swing in the gap with 16' bed) for the same price. the only problem was it weighs about 11000 lbs, the place I bought it from loaded it on the trailer I was using but when I got it home it was alot more diffacult to un load due to it maxed out what my tractor at home would lift. Check the ads on craigslist & your local news paper for used tools. You can rent a forklift to unload & move .
I thought with a 16' bed it would be fun to make some columbs
You didn't ask for this, but you can buy drum shells ---- http://www.aitwood.com/
Thanks,
There's some solid wood (stave) shells available too. I can also buy wood bowls but then what would I do with all my free time and a shop full of tools?!
Norse, my advice is not to tackle this until you have some experience on the lathe. Please consider joining one of the local chapters of the AAW:
http://www.woodturner.org/
They have many chapters that can help you learn to turn just about anything. Also, you can get good leads on a used lathes, tools, turning stock, etc. You will get a better idea of what tools that you will need.
There are a couple of drum makers in Texas. The drums they make though are made from solid wood instead of built up from staves. More of the African style. One guy was using an old 12" Oliver lathe with a riser block under the head and tail stocks. The tool rest had an extra long shaft.
They would bolt the blank to a face plate and hollow from the tail stock end and then part the cylinder off at the desired length. The tail stock was left engaged until the blank was roughed and most of the hollowing done. The turning was very slow speed and took a couple of hours. The lathe gouges and scrapers were a long ways over the tool rest at full depth. This is dangerous and not something tried by a novice.
If you decide to use the stave technique, make and glue in solid ends to use while turning. Mount the blank to the face plate and bring up the tail stock for support. While truing up the outside, turn slow until every thing balanced. Once the outside is true, sand apply finish and part off the tail stock end. To hollow the inside, you will need strong tools with long handles for leverage. This will be end grain turning so scraper may be best approach for beginner. There are many tecniques that you will eventually learn. When at finished thickness sand, apply finish and part off at desired length
This just an outline of the general process that I would use. There are as many approaches to this task as there are turners. Others here may have different and better ideas.
For a lathe, you might consider one of the new models with the large swing such as the Oneway or Powermatic. For large blanks you will need to start at slow speed so good speed control is a must.
Steve Pippins
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