I have an older Delta wood lathe with an open metal stand and manual speed adjustment,(Step Pully).The problem is the motor gets hot after a short time running. I start out on low speed under 1000rpm, for roughing, I am turning under 2″ diameter and I go up 2 steps on the pully to finish turning and sanding. The motor came with the lathe new it’s 1/2hp @1725rpm. I bought the lathe new in 1982.Can anybody help, is it the motor under powered od the design and quality of the lathe.
Thanks
Replies
First, heat is not good for any motor. That being said, it's time to try a few inexpensive cures before springing for a new motor or the repair of the motor. First, unplug the motor. Next, disconnect the belt and turn (spin) the motor by hand. Does it turn freely AND easily?? If not, take the motor outside and use an air compressor to blow out the 20+ years accumulation of sawdust. You may want to turn the motor on and again blow out any sawdust that has accumulated. Again, turn the motor by hand. If it still does not feel like it is turning easily, the bearings may be on their way out. On SOME motors, the bearings are easy to get to and replace, on some, it is a major problem. You may have to check your local 'yellow pages' to find a motor repair shop and have them take a look. After the motor is running correctly, you may want to use some sheet metal to make a dust shield over the motor. Do not build an air-tight, super-deluxe cover as the motor neede the free flow of air over it to keep cool. Hope this simple idea solves your problem. SawdustSteve
Hi Steve
I blew out the motor,the motor seems to spin freely &quiet by hand. I'll have to make some sort of cover for the motor. Thanks for your help Rick
Check your current.
A worn plug end can be robbing you of electrons or you might be using an extension cord that is too small, or a recepticle in the wall that is worn out. Maybe you have AL wiring in the wall that is coming loose at the connection...
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Hi Piffin
I'll have to check the rectatple and connections,the lathe plugs in from its own cord.
Thanks I'll check it out in the morn. Rick
Sawdust gave you most of the answers, Just one more thing to check. You might be running on the start windings too. Not a good thing. Check out the centrifugal switch that kicks out the start windings, Open motors often have this problem. Should be on the outboard side of the motor. A friend had a beautiful old DeWalt radial arm and burned out the motor that way.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Hi Bruce
I don't know much about motors,what does that switch look like, Thanks Rick
The centrifugal switches vary in design, but basically a couple of springs with arms attached which open the contact points once the motor has sped up enough to keep the motor running on the run windings. You may have to clean the points, Use a point file or 220 non metalic paper (garnet or flint) NO aluminum oxide paper. Then blow out the motor very well, then lube that linkage with WD40 it's non-conductive but will attract sawdust so use just what you need to keep it lubed. I do periodic cleaning of the two remaining motors in my shop. The Navy taught me one thing preventive maintenance, They called it PMS, Preventive Maintenance Syst. Now it means something else !!! So do the PMS and you won't have PMS.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Lots of good advice. Sawdust seems like the most likely culprit.
One other thing to check while the belt is off: spin the top pulley and see if the bearings in the headstock are smooth and turning freely. Could be the motor's working overtime. I'm assuming this is a model 46-111. Bearing replacement is pretty simple if needed. The only (minor) trick is that the bearings go in from opposite ends.
If you're running off an extension cord, that's a possible cause too. That motor wants a lot more juice than it can get through the typical orange Home Depot cord.
Pete
Green, With the motor un attached to the belt, just momentarily snap on the start switch.. then off. You should hear the start winding running the motor as soon as the motor gets up to speed, you should hear a definite 'Click' That occurs when the centrifical switch cuts out (Off)the starting winding and allows the motor to run on the running winding alone.
If you can't produce that click, the contacts need cleaning,
which only needs a folded over piece of fine sandpaper
(Or,your wife's emory board.)
Insert the abrasive between the contacts and press them to the sandpaper, while withdrawing the paper once or twice.
Before disassembling the motor,use a center punch to prick a couple of 'witness' marks at the seam where the end bell separates from the body of the motor. (Shell)
They will indicate exactly where to re-attach the bell when finished.
Steinmetz.
Edited 4/23/2006 11:41 pm ET by Steinmetz
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